LUXURIOUS, COMFORT SEDAN UNDER Rp.100M

My definition for the above subject is a comfort, fun to drive, enough engine power, automatic transmission, strong brand image and “low maintenance” secondhand car which can buy in Indonesia with price less than Rp. 100.000.000. Fuel consumption is not in the first consideration at this point, all cars need at least Ron 92 unleaded fuel. Fuel consumption ranging from 1 ltr for 5 to 8 km for big engine (2500cc above) and 1 ltr for 7 to 12 km for small engine (less than 2500cc). Here the list:

Audi A4, V6, 2.6 Tiptronic. Production year 1999-2001. Price range Rp. 70M – 100M. Even though the exterior is look average medium class sedan, however the interior and engine capability are superb for its price. Audi has its own class that can sit in the same level with Merc C240 (elegance trim) or even better than BMW 318. The interior quality is high, the tiptronic gear box is fun to use, car handling and steering respond is good. The 2.6 V6 engine is bullet proof than produce 170 hp.

BMW 523/528 E39, Tiptronic, 170 hp (523), 193 hp (528), 1996 – 1998. Price range Rp. 75M – 105M. BMW E39 is the one of BMW’s most successful car. The Inline 6 engine running smoothly and strong enough to haul its 1568 kg body. Interior is tidy and luxurious. Driving position and car respond is very good.

Mazda Cronos 2.0 and 2.5, 1998 – 2000. Price range Rp. 40M – 70M. Nothing wrong with this car. Only because of poor image of Mazda brand in Indonesia. Both car (especially the 2.5 ltr with 200 hp engine) is fun and comfort to drive. The interior quality and facilities are good.

Mercedes C180/C200 AT, 120 hp (C180) – 134 hp (C200), 1995 – 1997, Price range Rp. 75M – 105M. Every body knows about Merc quality and comfortable, bullet proof engine, low maintenance, and easy spare parts. Some people complain for C180 performance, but its enough for normal city driving. Elegance trim is the good choice.

Toyota Crown Royal Saloon 3.0 AT, 1996 – 2000. Price range Rp. 65 – 100M. This one is Japanese Mercedes. Very comfort and have a lot of facilities. Huge passenger and baggage space. The 3.0 powerful engine produce 220hp. Cooling box, climate control are standard.

Volvo 850, S/V 70, 2.5 AT, 170 hp. 1995 – 2000. Price range Rp. 50M – 100M. Volvo 850 it’s a mid size luxury car, equipped wit almost all facilities that you need, including a high class sound system and luxurious leather sit. The inline 5 cylinders engine is very reliable, low maintenance and powerful. Driving position and steering respond is excellent.

Volvo S40, 2.0 T, AT, 167 hp. 2000 – 2002. Price range Rp. 90M – 110M. This medium size car is comfort to drive with volvo’s safety quality. The 2.0 engine with low compression turbo is responsive and fast. The interior is not very impressive, lack of cup holder. An additional front strut brace will improve the body rigidity.

Other choice are Toyota Camry 3.0 AT , Peugeot 406, Honda Accord VTil, Mitsubishi Galant V6 24v. All of the above cars mention above have used for 6 to 10 years, a problem in electrical wire or air condition normally occur, however its not too difficult to fix.

KIA Carens

Overview
Kia's Carens, first launched in the in Indonesia in 2000, looked like a bargain alternative to the popular Suzuki Aerio, Toyota Kijang, Opel Zavira and so on - but that early version had a number of design flaws that meant it wasn't nearly as multi-purpose and practical as it should have been. But Kia has taken note of all the criticisms, gone back to its engineers and cabin designers, and come back with a new version that really does do what it should. Add in much-improved refinement, improved cabin quality, an upgraded specification and rear seats which actually split and fold (a notable omission in the first-generation car) and the Carens really is an attractive proposition - at a very competitive price. The only downside is that it now only comes in five-seat form, the six-seat option having been dropped. At 2002 KIA launched Carens II, the car with a “style” at that time. The exterior looks very attractive.

Fact:
Engine : 1.8 liter, 1794 cc petrol, four cylinder inline
Output : 124 hp at 6000 rpm
Torque : 162 Nm at 4900 rpm
Fuel consumtion : 1 ltr for 6 km for city driving, up to 1 ltr for 10-12 km for extra urban driving.
Facilities : ABS, disc brake at front and rear wheels, dual airbag, 6 seaters or 7 seaters.

Reliability and quality
Kia is gaining a reputation for making mechanically robust vehicles, and all the Carens' powertrain and underpinnings are based on tried and tested components and formulae. The cabin quality - plastics and materials - is much improved over the outgoing model; it's a pleasant environment visually, if not one that provides much tactile satisfaction. The seats are still obviously nylon, and the plastic fascia hard and grainy (no rubber-effect or silicone-enhanced surfaces here) and this might not wear well in the long-term. Some of the switchgear, and features such as the glovebox, storage compartments and hinged bits, are a bit flimsy.

Driving
The seating position has been improved, and whilst it is still not as high as in some rivals, the all-round vision is good. The instruments are all clearer to read. And there's still no intermittent setting for the rear wiper. MPVs like this are not meant to perform like sports cars - unless they're the turbo-charged Zafira GSI - but the Carens handles well enough to give a degree of satisfaction. Its suspension is quite agile, the fatter tyres have improved its grip, and the diesel engine is strong enough to push on hard. It's certainly not a frustrating experience for keen drivers.

Performance
With an improved version of the old 1.8-litre unit, the engine just enough to carry the weight. Its not a sport car anyway. The 1.8 engine that easily cruises on the motorway, has plenty of torque (pulling power) for overtaking and effectively nips around town. It is smooth at speed and would also work well for towing.

Comfort and Equipment
Refinement is much improved over the outgoing model, with better sound-proofing, suppression of engine vibrations and a smoother ride, though the Carens is still not quite as smooth and quiet as its European rivals. Not much in it now, though. The seats are supportive for long journeys, and the driver's seat has lumbar adjustment as standard. Air conditioning is standard too (climate control on SE models) and ventilation has been improved with rear ducts now fitted. With the five seats option, the Carens feels roomier than before, and there is generous luggage space and enough legroom for adults to travel happily in the rear. And yes, the rear seats do now split and fold properly, a large oversight in the last model's cabin, and you can now open the boot from the outside without using the key. Front legroom is a little limited though for tall passengers, and as the Carens is not as tall as some rivals and has quite a dark cabin, it doesn't feel particularly airy. The sunroof (not available in Indonesia) restricts headroom a bit, but does let in more light. Storage and stowage solutions are provided: an overhead console with sunglasses holder, centre console with double cupholder and underfloor storage with removable tray, so you can stash your oddments out of the way. A minimal stereo with six speakers and a radio/cassette is offered as standard; SE models gain an in-dash CD player. A six-CD stacker system is a option, and is fitted under the driver's seat: this should give acceptable sound quality

Running Cost
Kia dealers are generally cheap for servicing and maintenance; service intervals are at 10,000 km/12 months. Fuel consumption is average at 34.9 mpg from the petrol (31 mpg in auto form). Used Carens models should be both good value and dependable choices, though it will be a while before any of these improved versions filter onto the secondhand market. If you just want something cheap'n'cheerful, then the old model (without the split/folding seats or exterior boot handle and in petrol form only) will be much more affordable, but look out for ex-demonstrator examples of this new one, which is a much more appealing all-round package and worth paying extra for. Kia is also known for its helpful, friendly dealers, it gives a three-year, unlimited mileage warranty for both private and business users and the whole ownership experience should be hassle-free and happy.

Potential Problem
- Noisy brake pad
- Torn drive shaft rubber boot
- Weak suspension

Price
- Carens 1 MT (2000-2002) = Rp 55M – 65M
- Carens 1 AT (2000-2002) = Rp. 60M – 70M
- Carens II MT (2002-2006) = Rp. 80M – 100M
- Carens II AT (2002-2006) = Rp. 83M – 103M

Honda Jazz i-DSI and VTEC

Although the Honda Jazz or Honda Fit is now one of Honda’s global models, it experienced a very slow progression as it made its way around the world. The car first debuted in the June of 2001 in Japan and immediately became a big hit. It was then introduced to Europe (early 2002), Australia (late 2002), South America (early 2003), South-East Asia (mid 2003), China (mid 2004), and Mexico (late 2005). A production model for the United States and Canadian markets debuted on January 8, 2006 at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit. The car was released in Indonesia on early 2004 (iDSI) and mid/late 2005 (VTEC). Unlike most Honda models, which traditionally have 4 or 5-year model cycles, the current generation Fit will remain for a longer period of time due to its late release in North America.

Fact:
Body Style : 5 door hatch
Layout : front engine/front wheel drive
Transmission : 5 speed manual
5 peed automatic CVT
Wheelbase : 2450 mm (96.5 in)
Length : 3845 mm (157.4 in)
Width : 1675 mm (66.5 in)
Height : 1525 mm (60.0 in)
Curb weight : 1084 kg (2390 lb) for 1.4 L LS with manual transmission
Engine(s)* : 1.2 L L12A i-DSI I4
1.3 L L13A i-DSI I4
1.5 L L15A i-DSI I4
1.5 L L15A VTEC I4

*in Indonesia Honda Jazz only available in 1.5 i-DSI and 1.5 VTEC engine

Drivetrain
Depending on the region, the Fit is equipped with either a 1.2, 1.3, or 1.4 liter i-DSI engine, or a 1.5 liter VTEC engine. All four engines are based on Honda’s L-series engine family. The 8-valve i-DSI (intelligent dual and sequential) engines use two spark plugs per cylinder, allowing gasoline to burn more completely; therefore, fuel consumption and emissions are reduced while maximum torque at mid-range rpm is maintained. The 1.5 L VTEC engine has the typical 16-valve configuration. The 1.5 iDSI can produce 87 hp, meanwhile the VTEC engine with same capacity produce 110 hp.

The engines are mated to a 5-speed manual, 5-speed automatic, or Continuously Variable Transmission. Two forms of the CVT are offered: the regular, and the CVT-7. The CVT-7 has the traditional choice of gearless shifting, and a smooth, continuous flow of power with the added option of seven computer-controlled "gears" controlled by paddle shifters on the steering column.

Platform
The Jazz/Fit uses Honda's Global Small Car platform, which is also used by the Fit Aria/City (a sedan version of the Fit), the Airwave (a wagon version of the Fit Aria/City). One of the characteristics of the Fit, which is also present in the Fit Aria and Airwave, is the location of the fuel tank. Rather than placing it under the rear seats, it is located under the front seats, thereby freeing up valuable room in the back. It also allows for Honda’s "Magic Seat" system, called ULTR seat in Japan, which has five distinct seating modes, with the longest items can hold up to 2.4 m, and 1.28 m tall.

Driving and Fuel Consumption
Jazz is fun to drive, smooth engine, steering is light and accurate, however I feel a mild body roll when driving aggressively above 100 km/hr. For 0-100 km/hr the i-DSI engine required more than 13 seconds and the VTEC engine can reach 100km/hr 2 seconds faster. Top speed around 170 km/hr.

The i-DSI engine fuel consumption around 20-24 km/l for tol/extra urban and 14 km/ltr for city driving. The VTEC engine gave 14/km/ltr for extra urban and 10 km/ltr for city driving. This fuel consumption is depend on your driving style. Both engines need unleaded fuel (in Indonesia at least Premium TT, but for reaching the top performance and efficiency, Pertamax Ron 90 is recommended).

Rivals:

- Suzuki Swift: 1490cc, 110 hp, new model, stylish

- Toyota Yaris: 1497cc, 109 hp, stylish, strong brand image

-Hyundai Getz: 1314 cc, 82 hp, good interior, good fule consumption, good price, old model, brand image, 13 km/ltr.

- Chevrolet Aveo: 1498 cc, 86 hp, good suspension, lower price, poor handling, conventional engine

-Suzuki Aerio, 1500 cc, 110 hp, old model, more space, good interior, 13 km/ltr.

If you need a detail service manual of this type of vehicles, check at pdftown.

Car Review : BMW 3 series E46

The E46 automobile platform is the fourth generation of BMW's highly successful 3 Series entry-level luxury car / compact executive car. It was introduced in 1998 and replaced the E36 sedans the same year. The touring and coupé models appeared in 2000, and the M3 later in 2001. The E46 compact, a 3-door compact hatchback, was revealed in 2001. Despite being introduced last, the E46 compact was the first to be replaced when 1 Series was launched in September 2004.



The E46 sedan underwent a facelift in 2002, which included re-designed headlights, new bumpers and a stiffer chassis. Also, the 316i and 318i models received new, more powerful engines.

In mid-2005 the E46 sedans were phased out in favour of the new E90. The E46 touring was also replaced later that year with E91. The E46 remained in production as coupé, convertible and M3 until the E92 coupé and E93 convertible was revealed in late 2006. The new M3 coupé concept was later unveiled in March 2007 during Geneva Motor Show.

At 1999 BMW Indonesia were introduced E46 model with two type of engine; 318i (M43B19, 1895cc, 118 hp) and 323i (M52TUB25, 2494 cc, 170 hp). The 323i was a fast and responsive car with top speed up to 220 km/h, 0-100 km/h can reach in 9 seconds. Early 2001 the 323i change to 325i with M54B25 engine, the displacement remain the same with the previous one, however the bore and strokes were changed. This new engine can produce 197 hp, 0-100 km/h in 8 seconds and top speed 237 km/h.

In early 2002 the face lift version were released to the Indonesian market, most of the facelift were in exterior and minor in interior. No change of engine in 325i, however the 318i used a new engine N42B20 which has a larger displacement (1995 cc) and top horse power is 140 hp. With this new engine the 318i becomes the fastest compare to its competitor likes Merc C200 and Audi A4.

In mid 2003 BMW Indonesia launched the superior 330i, it was a fast and superb handling car. The engine is M54B30 2979 cc, can produce 231 hp and 300 Nm torque. Top speed 247 km/h, and 0 – 100 km/h in 7 seconds.

Potential Problem

• Electrical and steering rack have a potential problem, however if the user regularly maintain their car to an authorized workshop, the problem can be minimized.
• The fuel quality is also can be a problem, to reach top performance BMW engine required minimum RON 95 fuel, however lots of BMW owner in Indonesia fill their car with lower RON fuel. Under specification fuel caused a lower performance and also increasing carbon deposits in cylinder head. The fuel consumption of 318i relatively higher than its competitor with the same engine displacement, around 1 ltr for 7 km for city driving and 1 : 9 for extra urban.
• The most common fault on the E46 3-Series is with the heater blower fan. The switch breaks, meaning the fan will only work on its fastest setting.
• Early 320d and 330d manuals could suffer warped clutch plates. Most will have been replaced, but listen for a scraping noise when releasing the clutch on low-mileage cars. Post-2000 cars have tougher clutches.
• Thermostats can fail, so keep an eye on the temperature gauge. Make sure the ventilation fan works on all speeds, too
• Ignition Coils, These vehicles have exhibited an unusually high failure of ignition coils. There is one coil for each cylinder, located above the spark plug. The symptom is a misfire and setting the “Service Engine Soon” warning. When we read out the fault codes, we see “Misfire on cylinder X”. They seem to exhibit the symptom most frequently after the engine is fully warm.
• Window Regulators, Several users have reported having one or more replaced under warranty. If the window stops moving or begins to make quite a bit of noise, do not continue to try to move it or the drive motor may also be damaged.
• PCV Valve, The vacuum valve on these cars has a higher failure rate than the one on the previous 3 Series. Its failure causes rough idling and sets the Service Engine Soon light. If your engine starts to make a honking noise, like a small goose, this valve is the culprit.
• Cam Position Sensor, The position sensor for the camshaft will go open, either intermittently or completely. If it fails completely, the engine won’t run. If intermittent, it will die, then restart, run for a while, and repeat the cycle. It usually sets the “Service Engine Soon” warning.

And check my other post regarding BMW common problems and online resources.

Death Wobble (1)

Since I have quiet a lot of experienced dealing with death wooble in my cherokee and grand cherokee jeep, I will post several articles for this subject including my own experience. The next article wrote by Nathaniel Long three years ago, its can use as basic reference for death wobble.

If you drive a Jeep Cherokee or Grand Cherokee and are considering a suspension lift, you may want to think twice. Unfortunately, I was forced to learn this the hard way. I bought a brand new 2001 Jeep Cherokee a couple years ago, and almost immediately stacked on Pro Comp’s 3” lift kit with some 32 x 11.50 r 15 Super Swamper TSL tires. After a couple months of good riding, I started to experience what jeep enthusiasts have come to know as “the death wobble.”

The death wobble is basically when you are driving your lifted jeep down the road and the front end starts to shake violently. It can happen at virtually any speed, though mostly above 40 mph or so, and is a frightening experience, especially for those witnessing it for the first time. Now it doesn’t throw you off the road or anything … the front end just shakes. And the only way to stop it is to slow down and pull over. So it wasn’t that hard to get used to at first. But as it happened more and more, it seemed to get more and more out of control.

After driving with at least one death wobble per day for about three months, I decided to take it into the shop and see what the problem was. Being of course that off-road shops are primarily in the business of ripping people off, they gave me a list of “everything that was wrong with the front end that is causing the ‘TJ shimmy.’” Their proposal included the rotation and balancing of my tires, new front (and rear “cause you might as well”) shocks, new and stronger track bar, new and stronger drop pitman arm, new and stronger lower control arms with some special urethane bushings, and new sway bar links. Basically, with the exception of my original lift springs, the reinstallation of the entire Pro Comp lift kit with “better” components.

The bill was just over $1000.00. But to fix my death wobble, and hence my daily fear for my life, it was worth it. And even better, the new components would be strong enough to support a 6” lift if I ever wanted to go that big. The words of the salesman still ring in my ears: “Dude, you could totally run 35s with this setup.”

For the next couple months, everything ran fine again and I just assumed that my former Pro Comp parts just sucked. I even took the kid’s advice and jumped up to 33 x 12.50 r 15 tires. My new components were working brilliantly. Then one day, riding down I-70 toward the mountains, I hit a pothole and back came the death wobble. For the next couple months, I experienced the death wobble every time I hit a pothole, crack, or even merged onto a simple uneven lane.

Back at the shop, the guys, obviously not recognizing me from six months before, gave me the same proposal as the first time … almost word for word, too. My shocks, track bar, pitman arm and control arms were all shot again and needed replaced with their “better and stronger components.” The guys didn’t even take the time to see if my components were the same ones they had sitting on the shelf. In fact, the parts they wanted to give me this time were likely the same Pro Comp components they had replaced initially. At this point, I realized that I’d have to take matters into my own hands.

I had a buddy sit in the driver’s seat of my jeep and shake the steering wheel back and forth in an attempt to recreate the death wobble so I could view it from the other side. After not even two minutes, it became clear to me what the problem was. All my components were fine. The shaking was coming from the frame rail, which is connected to the axle.

What was happening was simple: My tires, as off road tires tend to do, kept going out of balance. Therefore, when I hit a pothole or uneven pavement, or too high a road speed, the tires would start to wobble and fight back and forth against each other. This is probably how Fred Flintstone felt driving around with those rock tires. The fighting tires would cause the axle to shake back and forth, which in turn caused the frame rail to shake. Hence the death wobble. Now the wobble could have been stabilized by the bar attached to the frame rail; if only it was attached to a real frame.

See, Jeep Cherokees and Grand Cherokees have what is referred to as a unibody design. This means that they don’t have frames like a real vehicle, just a combination between a frame and a body. It’s kind of like a tin can on wheels. And if you put tires under that tin can that are too big and heavy for it to handle, it’s going to shake all over the road.

Now I’m not saying don’t lift your Cherokee, I’m just saying don’t lift your Cherokee too high. It can handle 31s or 32s, but if you get any bigger or heavier tires, it won’t be strong enough to consistently support them. If you want to lift a Jeep vehicle for off road purposes, I’d recommend a Wrangler. It has a frame, meaning it can handle big and heavy tires, not to mention a roll over.

If you’ve already got a Jeep Cherokee and are experiencing death wobble, don’t listen to the guys at the shop. They’re just trying to get your money! Test each of the components of your front end yourself. Most of them are rock solid and rarely need replacement. Instead, just get your tires balanced. It should fix the problem right away, at least until the tires go out of balance again. To end it permanently, unless you can somehow fabricate a stabilizer bar to strengthen the front-end frame rail, the only thing you can really do is switch down to smaller tires. Or buy a normal road car …

Update: Volvo S40T

Up date on my Volvo s40T
Yesterday when I back home using my Volvo s40T, I saw the oil pressure light came on, and flickering, I slow down the car then continue to home. At home I hear a hard ticking noise from the top of the engine, the oil pressure light was off while idle, however it come on if I run the engine up to 2500 rpm.

This morning I checked the oil dip stick, wow...... I saw a white brown color in the stick. That mean the coolant already mix with the engine oil. My oil cooler has completely damage (see my previous post), the engine sound rough. I immediately turn off the engine and went to the Volvo workshop by other car.

Still no news for my oil cooler, I have been ordered this 4 weeks ago. The mechanic suggest me to drain my oil and coolant while waiting the parts ready and he said most likely the part will available next week, I crossed my finger for that. Drain the fluid to prevent rust starting in the engine because of water content in engine oil. Even though the volvo engine dominated build by aluminium but there is some minor part made by iron cast.

Is the mixture of oil and coolant can ignite the oil pressure light? maybe yes, however I suspect there still some oil sludge in the engine, this sludge block the oil reaching top of the engine and increase pressure at the bottom where the oil cooler placed. I also need to check and clean my oil pan. ....will continue when the oil cooler available.

CONTINUE...

After waiting for 10 days, the oil cooler available at the volvo workshop (32 days since I ordered), so I called the volvo emergency to towed my car from my house to the workshop.



Spend 3 days in workshop for changed the oil cooler, put new engine oil, cleaning oil pan, flush the radiator several times (there was oil remain in the radiator, the radiator almost clean after flushed 5 times), and changed the idle speed air valve hose, totally cost me Rp. 7.5M (around US$ 800). According to the volvo mechanic, there are some parts to be replace in the future:
- Radiator expansion tank, very small leaking, will be change after I use the car for 1-2 weeks, by that time
hopefully all remaining oil have been clean out.
- They suspect my car oil pump performance have been decreasing, they did pressure test and gave me
number 0.2 ...., its not clear 0.2 what? Mpa? if the unit is Mpa, 0.2 is a good number for idle speed, and
maximum is 0.7 Mpa at 4500 rpm. I'll find out this problem later. And again the parts was not available.
However they gave me a clue, the volvo s40 oil pump is exactly the same with volvo 960 royal (3.0) oil
pump, and I can find this part in local shop with much cheaper price.
- The mechanic also suspect the ticking tapped noise partially caused by low oil pressure/supply. It's may be
right, or maybe the hydraulic tapped have been damaged partially.
- The oil pressure light have turn off, however the check engine light remain on.
- the mechanic found an oil leaking from camshaft seal, needs more inspection.

And today, when I ready to went back to workshop to change my expansion tank, the battery just died ........, so I bought a new battery, a cheap G Force (US$ 110) instead of Varta (US$ 200). I postpone my visit to workshop, may be tomorrow.

CONTINUE .... 20 NOVEMBER
Back to volvo workshop for changing the radiator expansion tank, and reported that I found oil leaking under the car, I suspected came from oil cooler or oil pan plug. I asked the mechanic about the pressure test unit, he said 'Mpa', that mean my car give 0.2 Mpa when idle, its a good pressure, so the oil pump still in good condition (minimum 0.1 Mpa). And the engine check light gave ECM 62 code, according to the mechanic because of not nough oil pressure in camshaft valve sensor, however after I read the manual, ECM 62 code caused of off timing or camshaft pulley offset.
After inspection the mechanic told me that the oil leaking from camshaft seal, and its worst than previous inspection. Oh my god....., but I drove the car back to my home and plan to repair by the end of this month after receive my monthly salary.

21 November
Found the oil leak under my car, quite a lot. I can't wait, bring back to workshop and fixed ......

Beside fixed the camshaft pully and seal, the volvo's mechanic suggest to open the top engine cover to inspect the tappets condition and probably also can inspect oil sludge deposit on the top.

22 November

The volvo's mechanic called me, he invited me to inspect the top of engine. Wow the ***** oil sludge and residue covering the top engine cover, so I decided to overhoul the top part of the engine.



After 8 days in workshop, my S40 return home with very smooth engine.

Up date on May 2008
Six month after the top engine overhaul, the S40 running without any problem. The engine feel smooth, quite powerful and surprisingly very efficiencies fuel consumption, approximately 8 ltr for 100 km for city driving and down to 5.9 ltr per 100 km for extra urban driving.

GPS for your Car

Do you have a GPS in your car? Five years ago, most of Indonesian car haven't GPS in their car. There was some in build up car, however the complete map was not available yet. But time is rolling and people getting more familiar to GPS (thanks to navigasi.net). Before you want to install a GPS in your car, here some notes to consider:

1. Map.
No Indonesia complete free map available. Maps for certain area (Java, Sumatra, Bali) are available in Navigasi.net. However its only cover a big city and major province road. Actually this map is useful if you travelling in Java island. The is other map source from otomasi.com, this one is not free, but the price is not expensive. Other source are maps from solo system (expensive) and Nusa Map. In this current situation, map from navigasi.net is still the best for beginner.

2. GPS unit, what brand?
If you want to use navigasi.net or otomasi.com map as your main map, you should buy a Garmin GPS because both maps were designed for Garmin GPS unit. You can also chose other brand likes Magellan or Tom Tom, but the map not available, so you only can received your position in longitude and latitude format.

3. GPS unit, what type?
The Garmin GPs have a lot of types and series, which one is suite for you? For using GPS while driving, I suggest to used a GPS unit with wide screen. Garmin GPSmap 276c, Nuvi and Quest are the examples of garmin gps with wide screen.

4. Tracking facilities.
Is it important for you? If yes, forget about the Nuvi, this type of GPS have no tracking facilities, is designed for area which have a good map. So go for GPSMap 276c, Quest or Street Pilot.

5. Any other options?
Yes, you can use your pda pairing with garmin 10x bluetooth gps, or other bt gps (altina etc), for software you can chose GarminQue or Garmin

6. How accurate?
Standard GPS will give 5 to 15 m accuracy depend on the clarity from obstacles between the gps unit and the satellites

7. How much it cost?
For stand alone GPS likes Quest or 276c will cost around Rp. 4M to Rp. 6.5M (US$ 375 to US$ 600). If you already have a pda and want to pairing it with bluetooth gps it will cost around Rp 900k (Altina) to Rp. 1.8M (Garmin 10x)

What you did for your zj jeep?

As a Grand Cherokee Jeep (ZJ) owner with adventure gen in my blood, I can't let the jeep with the standard appearance, I really want to customized my jeep as long as my pocket can afford it.

Stock Grand Cherokee:

- Tire: coming with 235/70 R15 HT (highway terrain) tires, its good for asphalt road, very poor in dirty road, and absolutely useless in muddy road.

- Light: poor quality headlight, useless fog lamp.

- Differential Lock: none, the stock GC coming with limited slip differential, its not enough for real off road condition.

- Sound system: standard mopar head unit, no cd changer, small infinity power amp, no sub.

- suspension: excessive body roll

Modification stage 1:

- reduced the body roll: change the stock shock absorber with harder and stiffer one. You can find a various Jeep Lift Kits & Suspension from 4WD Hardware likes Procomp or OME products, also change the coil spring with a stiffer one.

- With a taller new spring and shock, 31" All Terrain can fix easily. Small clearance (about 2 fingers) between the fender and tire. Add 3/4" PU coil spacer to gain additional 2" high totally.

- Change the headlamp and the headlamp wire with a better product

- Install a pair of additional fog lamp or driving light, PIAA or Hella products are recommended

- Change the standard Mopar head unit with after market product (mine is Alpine), change the Infinity power amp with a higher output rate, add cd changer and subwoofer.

With this modification, the jeep ready for light adventure journey, rolling in dirty road or go camping near the beach.

For muddy road or slightly steep hills climbing? not ready yet, modification stage 2 needed:

- change the 3/4" coil spacer with 2" budget boost like TeraFlex product.

- install disconnect stabilizer link go get a better suspension travel.

- Change the AT tire with MT (mud terrain) type tire with the same diameter (31"), you can put bigger diameter, however you need to trim your fender (I wouldn't do that).

- adjust the track bar, otherwise you will get "death wobble" experience, and also go to the workshop for alignment.

- Install a new front bumper with ARB style bumper, add a medium strenght winch, like Warn M8000 , Warn xd9000 or Tabor products for cheaper price.

- Install a differential lock.

- And if you likes travelling for a long time, you can install a roof rack for additional baggage place.

Now the jeep ready for medium light off road, going camping in the mountain or fishing in the river mouth with your family.

Hard core off road??

No, not with this car, I prefer TJ or YJ wrangler or FJ Toyota.

Busway di Pondok Indah, tak sabar menunggu

Busway akan segera dibangun di sepanjang Pondok Indah sepanjang jalan Metro Alam, walaupun belum sampai, baru disekitar pasar Jum'at dan Jln Panjang, tetapi kemacetannya sudah terasa kemana-mana. Saya sebagai pengguna jalan yang membawa mobil pribadi dan berkantor di sekitar Pondok Indah (tepatnya di TB Simatupang, lebak bulus) sedikit terkena imbasnya, karena saya berangkat dari rumah melalui tol dan keluar sudah di TB Simatupang demikian pula untuk pulangnya.

Pada awalnya saya merasa kesal dan emosi, kenapa Jakarta ini dipimpin oleh orang-orang yang kepala batu dan bodoh, juga bawahan rame-rame mendukung kebodohan tersebut (tentu saja jawaban adalah biar bisa buat proyek rame-rame). Busway tentu saja tidak akan merubah kebiasaan pengguna mobil pribadi yang umumnya tingkat menengah keatas. Kalau golongan ini mulai susah, mereka akan menggeliat, tidak akan buat aksi-aksi tentunya, akan dilakukan dgn jalan damai, berenti bekerja dan pindah keluar negri dan bawa semua uangnya, jakarta akan lebih sepi tapi juga lebih miskin ....he..he.

Tapi melihat kasus Pondok Indah, saya akhirnya merasa setuju busway lewat disana, kenapa?? AROGANSI jawabnya. Sebagian warga PI sangat arogan, mereka menutup jalan dengan portal sehingga semua tumpah ke Metro Alam dan Arteri Pondok Indah, alasannya adalah jalan didepan rumah mereka adalah jalan perumahan, bukan jalan umum. Kalau 20 tahun yang lalu boleh saja mereka klaim seperti itu, tapi hari geneee....
Mudah-mudahan Busway segera terwujud biar super macet-cet-cet disana. Kelompok arogan tidak akan bisa bergerak, beli aja helicopter.

Parts Order, why took so long?

Ordered an oil cooler for my Volvo s40 from an authorized volvo workshop, it takes almost 4 weeks and still no news when the parts will be available. In the beginning they promised me that the part will available within 2 weeks. I'm not really upset, I know this problem will occurred some times. The problem is I'm not free to ordered directly to spare parts shop around the world, the authorized volvo workshop will refuse to install the part which was not bought from them, so I should go to private garage or workshop which is very limited in my home town, and I don't know they performance yet. So ... I should be patience, and watching my volvo coolant mix with the oil for 1-2 more weeks.

In the current condition, actually its not really difficult to find the parts for our car, browse the internet, go to reputable company site, prepare your paypal or credit card, and the parts will be on your door within a week. I used to buy parts from US or Europe, send it with reputable courier. The problem is; who will install the parts into my car or bike, especially for the specific parts which need a special tool to install. Only the authorized workshop can do it, however most of them refused to do that for the reason as I mention above, this is a part of their selling strategy, and I'm not so lucky involved in their strategy.

Buying Used : Mercedes A140

This topic will cover mercedes a140 for year 1998 - 2002, manual transmission. For the the Indonesian this A140 type called "pre-face lift"



Body and exterior.

• Check the body, paint and outside rubber quality, as 5 more years old car its normal to a little scratch and dent.
• Check the headlight, tail light, do not accept the car with broken light, its costly to get a new one.
• Check the fog light place cover, a140 didn't come with additional fog light, however the place for the additional fog light are available in oval shape and covered by black plastic. Also check the hole cover for placing a rear hook, its only coin size plastic cover but difficult to find the replacement.
• Go under the body, on both side check the black rubber for placing a jack. And also check the scratch on the lower part of the front and rear bumpers. A140 ground clearance is limited, so the lower part of the bumper is easy to scratch and torn.
  

Engine.

Mercedes A140 have a tiny four cylinders 1400 cc engine, actually is enough to bring its tiny body with 2 or 3 passengers inside. From the outside, the engine sound little bit rough compare to its competitors, however the cabin soundproofing quality is good.

• Check for oil leaks in engine compartment, A140 engine with good maintenance always dry from oil.
• Check the ticking noise from the top of the engine, its coming from the tapped. Normally used A140 have no ticking noise.
• Check the oil gauge, inspect the quality of oil, make sure there is no white or milkshake colour fluid in the oil stick.
• Inspect the coolant quality in reservoir, make sure there is no oil mix with the coolant. Never buy a car if you find a mixture of coolant and oil in the reservoir
• Run the engine, and check the exhaust, a healthy engine will produce very little smoke, and the smoke are colorless. In the morning a healthy engine will also produce a little bit water.
• And where is the battery?

Interior.

A140 interior is neat, build with medium quality material, however some plastic handle is easy to torn.

• Check the plastic handle on the outer side of the front seats, this handle were easy to broke
• Inspect the dashboard, might be loosen and squeaking in some part due to loosen plastic clip/screw
• Check the spare tire, jack up and emergency tool, all these stuff are located in the back compartment
• Check the battery which is located in the driver seat floor.

Electrical, suspension and test drive.

• Turn the key to position 1, all light on dashboard panel should be on and within 2-3 seconds will off except some likes: parking brake, engine check and abs. Turn the key and start the engine, all light should be off except parking brake light.
• Turn on and check all lights, i.e: head light, turn light, fog light etc.
• The ABS light on the dashboard panel can be triggered by low battery supply.
• Check the AC and the climate control panel, check the sound system.
• Asked the seller for permission for test drive, drive slowly with maximum turn to the both side, if you feel something strange in the steering wheel, probably needs tie rod inspection. A140 tie rod is not to strong, its easily damage on poor road condition. In normal road use, this tie rod still good after 40.000km.
• Feel the steering wheel respond, if there is any "miss" or excessive vibration on the steering wheel at low speed, steering column inspection is needed especially for the RHD type.

In my experienced having this A140, this tiny car is though as long as maintain regularly. The engine is really low maintenance type, however the suspension was not to strong as the engine.

How to find your parts online

Stay at Jakarta (Indonesia) and having some European or American cars/motorcycles in your garage, a potential problem could be rise when we need a parts or reference for our vehicles. In my experienced buying several pre-owned cars, most of them came without any owner manual book. The basic information of your car usually available in this book. I asked the the authorized car dealer, and most of them said that they don't have any stock, and if I want to ordered, they not sure when the book will available.

Almost same problem for specific part for your vehicles, most of the authorized dealer only have fast moving parts on their stock, for the specific one, they should ordered to their head quarter and can't give the exact time when the parts are available.

So, I should find the the reference or the parts by my own way. Buying directly from the online store outside of Indonesia. The problem, Indonesian credit card credibility is very poor due to most of carding fraud comes from this country. In this case, a personal approach to the merchant is needed. With a complete data (credit card, id, vin number, telephone, e-mail etc.) the merchant usually will approve our transaction. However, for security reason you should select a reputable merchant for transaction.

I'm a Amazon customer for almost 8 years, during that time I bought a lot of books regarding car repair manual, automotive etc. I'm satisfied with Amazon services. Sometimes the was a delay in receiving package, mostly caused by poor Indonesian mail service quality. Sometimes a reference I needed was not available in Amazon, so I could find other merchant, and with personal approach they never refused my transaction. For an example, last month I bought volvo owner manual and volvo technical reference from volvo technical info shop at Sweden, its took only 5 days to get the package on my hand with a regular mail service

The same personal approach style also applied when looking for vehicles/bike parts. However in this case we should also consider the parts size, shipping option and local tax. Sometime we have no choice, we should paid all of the cost otherwise our car will sit in garage forever. For spare parts with total price above US$150, I'd never use the regular mail for delivery, a reputable freight forwarding company likes DHL, UPS or FeDex are more secure, they will protect our parts.

And for the last three year there is another option for shopping, through Ebay. Around 2004 Ebay allowed Indonesian become a member, and almost at the same time Paypal as one of the payment processor also opened for the Indonesian. So, actually I have no problem anymore for searching a spare parts for my bike/vehicles, as long as I have enough money in for my credit card, the parts always available. For instance, I bought a crappy, rusty secondhand CDI from Ebay for my old Honda cx500, its cost me around US$ 37 (including shipping cost). This bike already 5 years sitting on my garage. That crappy secondhand CDI is work!!! (at least for 2 years).

Car Review : Volvo S40 2.0T 2001

Car Review: Volvo S40 2.0T 2001 (on going project)
Just bought this car three weeks ago with 53.000km. After took the car from the showroom, I immediately went to Volvo authorized workshop which is located next to my office. Ooops .... surprised... they have service record of this car, and the last record was 80.000km routine service on April 2006, then no record after that. 80.000 km ?? that mean the car seller tricked me, they reduced the odometer reading ... ooh my god. Its often happen in Indonesia, but this my first experience, how they did that?, even the volvo workshop can't do that trick (and never do that). Ok, I got 5 years of service record anyway. At least this volvo have well maintenance for the first 5 years. I only missing around 15 months track record. The brief specification of my Volvo S40 as below:

mid size four doors sedan
engine: 2000cc turbo (low compression)
power 167 hp
front wheel drive

The reason for bought this car:

Need one more car for my wife activity
Bigger than the previous Merc A140
The car should be comfortable enough for long distance driving
European car
Mid size engine

So what the right odometer reading actually?, just guess 80.000km plus 15 months (approx 20.000km), let say 100.000km now. I don't want to take a risk, changed the timing belt immediately. Then the engine oil check light on with noisy engine sound, I stop driving and check the problem, its seem the oil can't reach the top engine. Went to workshop and flush the engine, put new Mobil1 5-50 synthetic oil and replaced the oil filter. I found a thick oil sludge in filter cup. However I'm still afraid that is some more sludge in oil pan. I'd checked and cleaned the oil filter for every 3 days (approx every 200km), after the fourth times, the filter cup looks clean, no more sludge.

Checking under the body, found the one of drive shaft boots was torn, no more grease on it. The volvo workshop didn't have the part, I should be waiting for 2-3 weeks. I went to other parts shop and found the original boot for Rp 450k (US$ 45), its much cheaper compare to authorized volvo workshop that offer me Rp 1.2M (US$ 130) for the same parts.

After a week later I'd found parts of my coolant fluid colored light brown looks like a milkshake. It must be come from oil mix with the coolant. Ooooh, ....... big, big problem.... (going on)

(continue)
Brought the car to volvo workshop, they diagnosed the problem and found the oil cooler was leaking, and the oil and the coolant mix at that point. No problem with engine head gasket, they put pressure through plugs hole, no leak. Its a better news for me, I don't like to change my top head gasket at this time, its very costly. The oil cooler itself will cost me approx. Rp 3.5M, (US$375), however the part was not available yet, I should waiting for 2-3 weeks. Ok, I'll be patience.

At the same time the engine check light on, according to volvo workshop its trigger by camsaft sensor reading. However, if I replace the "milkshake" coolant partially, the light goes off, and the light will gone if I not used the car for 2 days. Its happen several times, I suspect something related with the coolant fluid. I should wait until the new oil cooler fit on my S40.

See my volvo updated status at other post

Useful link:
IPDUSA (volvo parts and accessories)
Volvo parts online
Volvo Forums
Volvo Forum UK

Motorcycle review: Suzuki TS125

Motorcycle Review: Suzuki TS125

In late 2004 there was Trail Motorcycles Fever around Bintaro, then I also bought one Suzuki TS125 through Indomobil promotion, so I can paid the bike by credit 12x payment term. And suddenly I went home riding the new bike. Its surprised my wife, and she started asking: "who gonna rides this bike?, what this bike for?? Frankly speaking, I never ride a bike for quite a long time (10 - 8 years ago), and previously I always ride a bigger bike, at least 500 cc (yamaha xs 650, kawasaki ltd 550, honda cx 500), I have one small bikes (we called "bebek" in Indonesia) 125 cc Honda Supra V, but most of the time this bike rides by my maid or drivers. This is a brief specification of the Suzuki TS 125 trail bike:

engine 125cc, two strokes
power approximately 13 hp
rear tire size 100/90 R18
front tire size 80/90 R21
both tires are a moderate off road tire type (poor grip in black road)
rear and front breaks: drum type

Week after, I started to ride this TS bike, after couple cycles around my house I feel this bike is to small for my 84kg body. The engine power was not impressive, look like under powered. By the way, my 5 years old daughter was very happy if I brought her with this bike. After that the bike just stay in my garage, I run the engine on around twice a month for several minutes. And, the two strokes engine produced so much smoke. If I bring somebody with me, the rear wheel will hit the fender easily due to soft shock absorber.

More than a year the TS bike sitting on my garage with no more than 250 km in odo, I started to do some modification. I'll tried to follow the "SuperMoto" style because in practice this bike almost never go to dirty road. I'll also want to add the height of the bike around 6 cm. The supermoto style will use street tires or mix 50% street - 50% dirty road tires. Both wheel in the same diameter, in this case I used 18" wheel instead of 17". I moved the original rear wheel to be front wheel, and for the rear itself, I picked-up a Honda Tiger rear wheel. The list of TS modification are listed below:

1. Maximum rear tire is 120/90 18, if I used wider tire, it will hit the original TS swing arm.
2. Front tire is110/90 18
3. Replace the front shock with the bigger one coming from Suzuki Thunder 250. This new shock coming with disk break. I also made a wider upper part (Segitiga & comstir) to accommodate wider front tire.
4. Add 5 cm additional tube for front shock
5. Add 4 cm additional height for the rear mono shock.
6. Installed Acerbis hand guard
7. Installed Acerbis rear and frond fender.
8. Changed the original fuel tank with Hyosung RX125 tank including the its plastic cover.
9. Saddle modification and trimming following the bike contour.
10. Changed the head lamp with smaller size and installed Acerbis headlamp cover.
11. Painting worked, all black color.

After three weeks the skinny tiny suzuki TS become a SUPERMOTO. In body work point of view, I'm quite happy. Then I used this bike for a while, several notes were made as below:

1. Although the bike is taller, but the handling and riding position is still the same. I'm not touched the frame.
2. With wider tire and heavier shock, the engine power become worst, the top speed only reach 85km/hour with heavy engine vibration.
3. So tall ....., its not easy to do a kick starter (this bike have no electric starter), however there is no problem occurred when the bike already rolling.
4. Poor saddle modification, become uncomfortable for long rides.
5. Needs additional modification especially for increase engine performance like change the original exhaust with better one, used a larger piston, wearing better gear ratio and install a racing tune-up equipment.

At the end, after stage 1 modification this TS bike back to my garage for months almost a year. I've never used it. And at mid 2006, I sold the bike for Rp 12.5M with 600km in odo, however I the cost to get this bike plus modification is exceed 20M. It's ok, otherwise the rats will start making a new house in it. For the future I'll looking for another trail by with minimum 250cc engine and four strokes.

Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 2002

Car Review : Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 2002

I bough this second hand ZJ Jeep at late 2005 with 16.000km in odo reading. This is the first generation Grand Cherokee, the latest product was 2002 for export market, in US itself the latest product was 1998, than starting from 1999 the model changed to WJ type. This Grand Cherokee basically have a distinctive different with the predecessor Cherokee (XJ) Jeep. The body is bigger and longer than XJ. This ZJ already used coil spring in all wheel instead of leaf spring in XJ rear axle. The front facia is still have strong jeep image with 7 holes grill, however the rear body become more rounded edge compare to the XJ.

This is a`brief specification of my Grand Cherokee ZJ:

engine 4000 cc, petrol

power 197 hp

torque approx. 300 Nm

type laredo with plastic side panel and bumper

automatic transmission

full time 4WD with Quadra Trac type transfer case.

Several reasons for choosing this Jeep:

1. I'm looking for mid size SUV
2. Should have 4WD option for light off road and dirty road
3. Though and simple engine (the jeep 4.0 i engine has proved it)
4. Comfortable and big enough for loading a camping gear
5. Automatic Transmission
6. ABS and airbag

This Grand Cherokee equipped with very comfortable leather seat, OEM tape and radio (Mopar product), generally is ready for long distance rolling with my small family. Immediately after bought this Jeep, I'd recognized some problems like: noisy sound from front final gear and damage front drive shaft boot. I'd replaced the front ring and pinion and also installed a new drive shaft boot. The ring and pinion its quite expensive, its cost me around Rp 7M (approx US$ 800) for parts and labour. I'd also changed the stabilizer link and break pads.

Three weeks later I brought this ZJ to light off road track, I also bring my family with me. The location is around Tangkuban Prahu in West Java. In totally dark condition (we drove in midnight), the stock tire (29" size) lost its grip, the Jeep running zig-zag in muddy road, and oftenly stuck in deeper mud or stuck by big rock. Fortunately there is another full modified 4WD vehicles (suzuki jimny SJ40) accompanied and helped us. In very narrow road, my jeep rolling to the driver side, and the suzuki helped us again. Lot of scratches in the body paint, however after several washes, the scratch were disappeared.

First upgrade was the sound system, I'd changed the head unit with Alpine product, replaced the OEM infinity power amp with higher power (rockford), added a CD changer and sub woofer, also change all OEM speakers (infinity) with better quality speakers (Quad product).

Then the suspension, the original shock feel to soft, the body roll while cornering was obvious. Changed the shock complete with the coil spring with Old Man Emu (OME) product, this new shock and coil spring have longer lenght than the original, the jeep will taller 1-1/4", I also add 3/4" coil spacer, so the jeep high increase 2" totally. This high body is meaningless if not followed by changed the stock tire for better ground clearance. I choose 31"x10.5 R15 Dunlop Grantrek All Terrain, this is the biggest tire can fit with current suspension condition, can't fit bigger, otherwise the tire will scratch the fender. With those modification, the ZJ jeep looks better and nicer. The changed of original suspension with added longer coil & shock plus budget boost spacer caused a significantly changed in wheel alignment. My Jeep has several times "death wobble" experienced, its scary, after hit a small bump or hole the whole steering wheel and body shaking violently in normal driving speed (70-120 km/h). Wheel alignment is needed to cure the death wobble, we should explain clearly to the alignment operator what actually happen with the Jeep. I installed one additional steering shock for better handling.

A pair of Warn driving light installed in front and one additional light in the back. New towing bar made in thailand was installed. I changed the damage muffler with local product (made in Brewok), the muffler manufacture claimed that his muffler is better than the famous Borla product.

The additional ground clearance has proved its effectiveness during big flood in Jakarta. The ZJ Jeep can crossed 1 m high flooding water easily with out any problem. High ground clearance also help in dirty and off road track, my rig can passed the road obstacles. The OME shock and spring reduced car body roll significantly.

The are some notes for my ZJ Grand:

1. Bullet proof engine, bit old but easy to maintain.
2. Strong solid axle, good suspension.
3. Poor AC condition, small evaporator (made by Sanden) and difficult location, not easy to maintain. I've change my evaporator due to leaking in some places. Small compressor (Denso), broken after 4 year, installed a new one. Noisy blower in cabin, don't know how to reduce it.
4. The electric fan was easy to broken.
5. Useful Plastic body panel during off road, reduce paint scratch in body, easy to clean up.
6. Good dashboard information gauge, including the important battery charge meter and oil pressure gauge.
7. Spare tire located inside the cabin, reduce the luggage area volume.
   

Currently I use this ZJ Jeep as daily car, no complain and no problem for the engine. The OME shock start to weaken after one year. I've plan to continue upgrading the jeep in near future, as follow:

1. Install nerf bar and side step, local made.
2. Change the rear plastic bumper with custom made bumper with tire hanger.
3. Change the front bumper with ARB style bumper plus winch.

Useful link:

• Jeep Forum for technical and up-grade info
• Jeep Parts & Accessories from 4WD Hardware
  
• Jeep Club Indonesia

Car Review : Mitsubishi Galant V6 24v 2001

Car Review : Mitsubishi Galant V6 24v, 2.5 2001

Bought this pre-owned car at 2004 with 58.000 km on the odometer. Manual transmission and 2500 cc engine capacity. This is one of my dream car, I was very impress with its stylish exterior shape and also have quite strong engine. The bonnet remind me of shark shape, that why some Indonesian called this car "shark looking galant" (galant hiu), there is also "catfish looking galant" (galant lele) for the previous version of Mitsubishi Galant. Mitsubishi brand was identic with fast car image, and this car can proved that image. The brief specification of this car as follow:

Engine 2500cc, V-6 cylinders, 24 valves
power 167 hp
manual transmission
abs, air bag
front wheel drive

When I purchased the car, the condition generally good, ready for daily use. A month later I found a water pool in driver side floor. I brought the car to the ac workshop and found a clogging water pipe in the evaporator outlet. And the evaporator itself was very dirty. After clean-up the evaporator and the circulation pipe, the ac working perfect. According to some reference, mitsubishi galant ac is one of the most strongest/heavy duty ac, both evaporator and compressor made by Denso. The next upgrade was the sound system, completely changed the EOM product with Alpine head unit and speaker, add one JBL subwoofer and rockford fosgate 4 channel power amp.

Driving Experience

Mitsubishi Galant handling is average, with medium-large body and front wheel drive, oversteer occur during hard cornering. The acceleration was impressing, especially in third and fourth gear. Normally, I used to drive at 140-160 km/h at toll road. The top speed I'd tried is 220 km/hr, according to the factory manual book, this type of Galant can reach 235 km/hr. Breaking is superb, and the abs work perfectly. Slightly body roll occur when cornering, however an additional strut bar will give better improvement in car handling.

Fuel consumption around 1:5 to 1:6 (1 liter for 6 km) for city driving and 1:8 for extra urban. I installed two "fuel max", a magnetic ring installed at fuel line. This magnetic rings gave better fuel consumption 1:7 for city driving and 1:9-1:10 for extra urban, the acceleration also improving.

Problems

1. erratic engine at lower rpm, its look likes the engine will cut out. Initially I suspect the poor/dirty fuel system cause this problem. Then I cleaned up the tank, sender, changed the fuel filter, however the problems still occur. After a few months, the Mitshubishi person told me to check the back pressure valve sensor, the tiny sensor on the top of the engine, replaced this sensor (cost me rp.125 rb/ US$ 14) and the problem gone, engine run smoothly.
2. Ticking noise from the top of the engine, especially at morning time. This sound came from engine tapped. Mitsubishi Galant used Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (HLA), this part can produced ticking noise if the oil not well circulated or if broken. After reads some reference, particularly from Indonesian Mitsubishi Owner Club ("idmoc") forum, I've add Wynns Tune Up Concentrate oil additive, and the noise slightly reduced and almost gone after few weeks.
3. Sound proofing was not really good, road and engine noise was high during high speed driving.
   

The rest is no problem, I'm very confidence to drive this Galant for long distance trip, however with a quite big and fast engine tends to push the throttle deeper and caused a higher fuel consumption.

Car Review : Mercedes A140 2001

Car Review / Mercedes A140 2001.
I bought this second hand car in 2003 with only 6000km in odo.

This car is the smallest car in Mercedes family, when its launched at 1997, A140 failed in "Elk Test" performed by the journalist, the car roll-over during hard break in Elk Test. However this accident have a positive respond from Mercedes engineer. They made some corrections and installed new stability control device. A Class have some variants i.e: A140, A160, A190. In Indonesia only A140 available through authorized Mercedes dealer. The brief my A140 specification as follow:

engine 1400 cc
power 87 hp
fuel injection
manual transmission.
dual air bag

equipped with sound system and leather seat

The reason for buying this car are:

1. I know the seller, and the car condition was very good
2. Low mileage
3. Perfect for as my wife's car, most of the time for drop and pick-up my daughter at school
4. Compact size, still have enough room for baggage
5. We likes the model and style.
6. Prestige, even small the A140 still bring Mercedes image
7. Quality and safety.
   

I pick-up the car at Jakarta and immediately brought the car to Bandung (approximately 165 km from Jakarta) through hilly road. The journey is perfect, no problem at all with the new car. Within four years using this car, not to much modification I made. I changed the original 15" wheel with 16" size, and the car gain 2 cm additional high. This higher wheel not reduced the car handling, is good to pass stop bump without scratch the bottom. I also added a new power amplifier to get better sound system quality.

During four years, I have no problem with its engine, even though the engine was small and produce rough sound, its powerful enough to get 140-150 km/h with three peoples and baggage on it. The engine was durable and bullet proof. I did regular maintenance every 10.000km (usually only once a year). Some peoples complain have with A140 performance, they said that they have lot of problems with the engine. Fortunately, my A140 was always in good condition (especially the engine). I like to do "italian tune-up", bring the car to the toll road and drove it with high speed and quite high rev (around 3000rpm) for 100km, at least once every two months. The only major problem was the key tumbler, its broken-prone after several clicks. The tumbler construction is poor, made by plastic. To get a new one, you should wait for a month and paid more than Rp 1M (more than US$ 120).

Comment for my Mercedes A140

1. Key tumbler problem, broken every year. I installed a cheap automatic central lock system with a remote to prevented the tumbler key problem


2. Tie rod and stabilizer link should be change after 20k km, however if you drive always in smooth asphalt road, this two gear will working much longer.
   
3. ABS light on and off, check the brake pad first, if the brake pad still thick and in good condition, check the battery. Low battery supply also can ignite the ABS light on.


4. Squeaking noise from the dashboard started occurred after 5 years, this cause by the plastic screw become weak, replace with metal screw.
   
5. The interior quality (especially the leather seat) were good
   
6. The air condition was good, I'd never have a problem with the A140 AC.


7. The highlight is bright enough especially if I turn on the fog light.
   
8. Steering column problem, This happen because of the conversion system from LHD to RHD, there are 3 knuckle joins in RHD version. And the weakness point is the first join which is located very close to the steering wheel. The solution is tightened the metal spee in that knuckle join, no part needed, only cost of labour for dismantling and re-install the dashboard.
   
9. Steering respond is not so good, no feeling. But its ok, what do you expect for small and cheap (not really cheap actually) merc like this.
   
10. Good fuel consumption, 1 liter for 10km in the city and 1:14 for extra urban road.

We quite happy with this A140 performance, though engine, cold AC, however when my daughter growing up, this car become to small for my wife. So we decided to sell our Merc A140 at September 2007 with very good condition and 36.000 km on odometer.
Useful Link: A Class Owners Club

Car Review : Timor S515i DOHC 1997

Car Review : Timor S515i DOHC 1997
Bought this brand new car at 1997. Actually the real brand is KIA Sephia, a Korean manufactured vehicle. In Indonesia the brand changed to TIMOR with a lot a controversial matter with it. This car was cheap compared to its rivals likes Honda City, Suzuki Baleno or Toyota Soluna. Why cheap? because this manufacture had a special tax deduction from the government. At the beginning, people little bit reluctance to bought, korean car reputation was not really reliable at that time. I don't really care, KIA made a lot improvement in the last 5 years. The brief specification of Timor S515i as follow:

engine 1500 cc, DOHC (double overhead camshaft)
power 110 hp
manual transmission
fuel injection.
front disc brake and rear drum brake.

The reason to buy this car:

1. Cheap, Rp. 10M cheaper than suzuki baleno or honda city
2. Good model and design in its class
3. Better interior quality and functions
4. The engine power is enough for daily use
5. Fuel injection system, low maintenance
   

I did some upgrades for this car: change the EOM head unit with "sony", change the EOM speakers, installed additional power amplifier. The original 14" rim wheel changed to five spokes 16" wheel fit with 205/50 R16 tires.

Used this car for 6 years with regular service maintenance, I can resume this car as:

1. Very reliable engine, never had a problem with engine
2. Cheap spare parts, easy to find, can used other brand parts likes mazda or ford
3. Enough power, used to run at 140-150km/h at toll road.
4. Good handling, bit over steer when cornering.
5. Poor brake system, should be very careful when using this car in high speed.
6. Poor quality plug wire, torn easily.
7. After 4 years, I feel a mild vibration in lower rpm after release the clutch. Its cause by unbalance flywheel surface. Its suggested to change the flywheel immediately, not expensive.
8. Sticky clutch if the car not use for long time.
9. Fuel consumption around 1 ltr/9 km for city driving and 1 ltr : 12 km for extra urban driving

Generally I'm satisfied with this car performance, excellent value for money. Sold the car at 2003 with 57.000 km on odometer.

Car Review : ISUZU PANTHER SPORTY 1996

Car Review : ISUZU PANTHER SPORTY, 2500 cc 1996
I bought this car in 1996 as a brand new car for several reasons:

1. I often used diesel powered vehicles likes Isuzu Trooper and Daihatsu Taft GT.
2. Diesel engine is easy to maintain, as long as you change the oil and filters regularly.
3. Good workshop/garage network.
4. Good body shape/ exterior with big wheel and over fender.
5. Enough internal space room.
   
6. Value for money.
   

Once I got the car, I started to up-grade step by step:

1. Changed the head unit with "Sony" brand (previously was Kenwood), add a CD changer, install a power amp and sub-woofer.
2. Changed the OEM steering wheel with "Momo" leather steering wheel.

After few months using this car, the character become obvious:

1. Very bright head light, no need up-grade
2. Excessive body roll during cornering, change the OEM oil shock (Kayaba) with harder gas shock (also from the same Kayaba brand). Suspension become harder and the car handling improved, however the new gas shock absorber only good for 10 to 12 months, probably I should choose a better quality shock i.e Biltstain or Old Man Emu. Harder shock make the ride feel bit harder for the first three month, after that the car suspension feel better.
   
3. Incorrect final gear ratio, max speed only 115 km/h
4. Noisy engine (of course, this is direct injection diesel engine).
5. Good quality AC, (ND brand), low maintenance, very cold, silent. No heater.
6. Good fuel consumption, 1 ltr for 9 km in the city and 1:14 for extra urban.
   

To get a better final gear ratio, I used the isuzu trooper final gear replaced the panther original one. This new final gear was worked much better than the original one. Panther Sporty is using 235/70 R15 tire size, much bigger than the standard panther size (195/65 R15). I also made little adjustment in fuel injector. With new final gear and injector adjustment, its easy to reach 4500rpm, however the fuel consumption slightly increased. A turbo-zet installed at air intake, the rotary of the fan will increase following the rpm. This turbo zet will help the engine respond especially at lower rpm. With all modification, the Isuzu Panther can reach 140 km/h easily.

Next modification was fuel tank. The spare tire location is inside back cabin instead of on the bottom of the car. There is a empty space under the body, so I'd installed an additional tank at that location, both tanks are connected with rubber hose. So with two tanks its can accommodate almost 98 liters fuel, its more than enough for 2 weeks driving.

After 2-3 years, I recognized some problems:

1. Brake jammed, the front disk needs extra maintenance, at least should be clean up every year or every 10,000 km.
2. Speedometer gear broken for many times. This gear made by crappy plastic material. Change with after market metal gear for less than US$ 2.
   
3. Power steering seal leaking after 2 year, need replacement.
4. Loosen wheel stud/bolt. I lost 3 of 4 of my rear wheel bolts, one of them dropped to the rear brake drum and made "cling" noise. Its very dangerous, it can broke the rear brake pads and drum. These bolds need a regular inspection, at least once a week.
   
5. In year four, I heard a hard ticking noise from the fuel injector pump, the oil seal was leaking, need replaced and calibrated.

To improve the engine capability some Panther owners install a small low compression turbo (usually Garrett brant), this turbo will help engine performance (about 20 to 25 % better) and also will improve fuel consumption due to increasing of engine efficiency. It will cost around US$ 1000 for brand new turbo or US$ 400 to US$ 600 for second hand rebuilt turbo. The next generation panther have turbo as an optional.

Generally I'm quite satisfied with this car, huge space, high torsion, low maintenance, and economic fuel consumption. However, if I can choose, I'll choose the Isuzu Panther with standard tire size instead of the big one. I'd sold this car at 2002 with 100,000km on odometer.

See my other post for general diesel engine tuning.