Maxxis Trepador;.....25.000km later

After used the Trepador for approximately 25.000km in 22 months, here the review:

Uses: 75% road (asphalt, concrete) and 25% off road (gravel, muddy)

Confortable for daily use in the first 6 months, after that the tire start produce noisy sound, after 16-18 months the tire start cupping, and resulted a excessive vibration and shaking especially in low speed.

Trepador shows a good performance in the off road condition, especially at muddy road.

Current main issue: tire cupping and high noise in asphalt and concrete road.

What next: I'll keep this tires (including the wheel) for a while, maybe another year, for off roading purpose only . For daily use I'll usel a new wheel with 16" or 17" ring and installed a H/T tires (high way type) with the same diameter with my old Maxxis Trepador.

My Grand Cherokee ZJ problems.

My Grand Cherokee ZJ spec (2009 status):
Manufactured : 1998 (the latest model)
Engine : 4.0 litre I-6
Trim : Laredo
Modification :
- lift 2”
- 31” tire
- After market shock and coil springs (OME)
- After market sound system.

List of problems and solutions:

1. Front ring and pinion failed at 9,000 km. Symptom: noise from front differential. Solution: change the ring and pinion with the higher spec. This problem was common for latest version of Grand Cherokee ZJ.
2. Air conditioner evaporator leaking at 25,000 km. Symptom: lost of refrigerant, AC not cold as used to be, the compressor clutch on and of frequently. Solution: inspect the evaporator, clean it. Found a big hole in the evaporator, could not be repair, then change the evaporator. Note: the evaporator made by Zanden, the size is relatively small compare to ZJ interior volume. The evaporator was located under the dash board, to uninstall it you need to remove the dashboard first.
3. The master power window and central lock (on driver side and later all doors) failed. Symptom: completely failed, no button functioning. Solution: 1. Check the 30A fuse on the power distribution center under the hood, take it off and then put it back again. Usually the power window will work again normally. For better solution: make an on-off switch between the power window and the fuse, and turn off the electric charge when it not functioning. It is a common problem in Grand Cherokee ZJ, a continues electric supply to the central power window and central lock unit can make the system failed. 2. If the central lock still have problem, check the actuators, and replace it. If the original cost you a lot, find the after market central lock motor, its really cheap (made in china :-) ), around US$ 10 to 12 each and can work at least for 3 yrs.
4. Air Conditioner compressor failed at 38,000 km. The symptom almost the same with number 2, however usually the AC works fine at the beginning and failed after 1 hour trip (when the compressor reach its normal work temperature). Solution: Inspect the AC compressor, check for leaking. In my case, I open the compressor, overhaul it, and found most of the piston have been scratch badly, and some parts of the clutch have been damaged. I change the compressor completely. Note: My original compressor brand is Nippon Denso (ND), it is weird because the evaporator is manufactured by Zanden.
5. Transmission high pressure hose leaking at 47,000 km. This is the high pressure hose from the tranny to oil cooler, leaking on the oil cooler side. Symptom: oil leaking and then dripping from the hose, loosen transmission oil, when the condition become worst, the automatic gear can jump suddenly to neutral in normal driving condition. Solution: change the high pressure hose, add the transmission oil. Note: to check your ZJ transmission oil level, park your car in flat area with engine running, move the gear lever to N and check the level using a dip stick.
6. Engine misses throughout driving speed range starting at 51,000 km, the jeep engine misses in high rpm (i.e. above 2000 rpm). This problem occurs especially when driving a long trip. Solution: clean up the fuel tank, clean the fuel pump. Replace the fuel filter. Note: for my ZJ the fuel filter located inside the fuel tank, for pre 1998 ZJ, fuel filter located outside the fuel tank (more simple and easy to replace).
7. Death Wobble, occur several times after I lift my jeep 2” and changed the stock tires with 31” tires (see my previous post). Solution: proper wheel alignment. Note: after did a wheel alignment, the DW is gone, however the steering still not back to normal as an original setting, need more suspension up grade (see my next post)
8. CV joint front drive shaft is prone to be broken after few years, replace with Universal joint front drive shaft, taken from XJ country jeep or after market product.

The rest are minor problems, like death battery, dirty power window motor. Generally the I-6 engine is very reliable and low maintenance.
See my other post about my ZJ compare to the Japanese 4wd in Cars and Bikes site.

Thinking of Japanese 4WD

After using 1996 YJ Wrangler and 2002 ZJ Grand Cherokee (both with the same 4.0 ltr I-6 gasoline engines) for more than 4 years in Indonesia, I’m started to think for buying a Japanese Diesel 4x4. FYI, due to government regulation for big engine and 4x4 car, Jeep price in Indonesia is almost the same as a luxurious Mercedes C or E class.

I‘m happy with the Jeep products, the exterior style are so beautiful, especially the YJ Wrangler is so sexy with its canvas top. It is easy to buy a modification parts especially for the Wrangler. Bumper, winch, additional light, roof rack etc, just name it, all available in many shop like 4wd.com, ARB or quadratec. They will send you a bundle of thick catalogues for free, and after that just watch your wallet, it will drained easily. And my wife regularly contact my mobile phone because I spent to much time in workshop for modification both jeeps.

Interior. Don’t ask, its really WW II style for the Wrangler, the steering wheel looks like a 1957 caldillac. Power window? No way, I still can’t believe that this 1996 wrangler have no power window. Sitting on rear sit? It is a nightmare, even my 7 years old daughter complaining, no head rest, bumpy, noisy and feel like trapped in a cage. Baggage capacity? Very limited, but who cares? It’s a Wrangler, you even don’t need a wearing a cloth while drive it. The ZJ Grand Caddy its much better, this is a real full size SUV, very comfortable cushion, good quality steering wheel, and of course a power window. A rear baggage is small, ¼ of capacity is used for spare tire.

Engine. The 4.0 ltr in-line 6 engine really a bullet proof, both cars using the same engine. No complain about it, its old but strong. 190 hp and around 300 nm torque its enough to haul its body. However, the electrical system is not as strong as the engine, torn wire, melted wire cover, excessive battery consumption, but its normal for 11 and 7 years old vehicles. Fuel consumption is not the part of discussion, it’s a Jeep anyway, it would not more than 20 mpg, 16-18 mpg is normal for daily use. With a good maintenance I never have an overheat experienced. The spare parts its quite expensive but tolerable.

Suspension and Driving Experience. A solid axle, strong transfer case made the Jeep suspension very reliable and strong. However its not comfortable, bumpy and lack of steering precision at Wrangler and excessive body roll at Grand Cherokee. Death wobble is a nightmare. But again, it is a Jeep anyway.

Why thinking Japanese 4WD? By time both jeeps started have a minor problem, not big but start make me worry especially for long journey. The workshop is limited in Indonesia, the fuel quality is poor. It is better to use a diesel engine than a gasoline one. And Japanese car workshop are plenty, the old diesel engine (not the high tech common rail diesel) is not too reluctance with poor fuel quality as long as we maintain the quality of fuel filter. What kind of car? Toyota 70 wagon series is the best workhorse, alternately I can choose Toyota 80 series, Mitsubishi Pajero or several Japanese double cab from Nissan, Isuzu or Mitsubishi.

Jeep would not give up. I will take my Grand ZJ for long trip next week, its almost cover 3000 km. Hopefully my grand caddy will performed normally. All of the Japanese can’t compare to this Jeep, I would not let my ZJ surrender.

UPDATE ...12 january 2008,

I completed my 2600km journey yesterday, it did within 5 days. The Grand ZJ have a problem at the biggining of the trip. Firts, it lost its power in high rpm, I suspect cause of poor fuel quality. So I refuelling the tank with higher octane gasoline (RON 92), in Indonesia this kind of fuel is 50% more expensive than the regular premium (RON 88). However the the RON 92 fuel is cleaner, lead free. The good quality RON 88 only available around Jakarta. The lost power problem never came after I changed the fuel. Second, transmission problem after 4-5 hrs driving, it happen when the transmission become very hot. So, I took a short rest after 3-4 hrs driving for cooling down the transmission oil. I have plan to change the original transmission oil cooler with a bigger one, to keep the transmission oil in normal working temprature. The rest is no problem, The Grand Cherokee ZJ still comfort and capable for long distance trip.

YJ/TJ Wrangler Jeep

The YJ Wrangler (later become TJ and JK) is an off-road vehicle produced by American automaker Chrysler under its Jeep marque. It is a successor to the famous World War II 'Jeep' vehicle by way of the Willys Universal Jeep (CJ) in the 1950s, later produced by Kaiser-Jeep and AMC. The Wrangler debuted in 1987, was updated in 1997 and again in 2007, and is still popular today.

The Wrangler, 1987 to 1995 models were sold as YJ, and 1997 to 2006 models were sold as TJ. The model designations of YJ and TJ are used throughout the world in the Jeep enthusiast community to differentiate which model is being spoken of instead of using the more ambiguous term "Wrangler".

The Jeep YJ, sold as the Wrangler, replaced Jeep CJ in 1987. It was a new design with a wider wheelbase, slightly less ground clearance, a galvanized body and more comfort. The YJ also had a leaf spring suspension similar to that of the CJ, however, the springs were wider, and the YJs sported trackbars and swaybars for added handling. YJs are easily identifiable by their rectangular headlights, which were a source of controversy when introduced. Despite the new grill, the body is very similar to the CJ's, and it is interchangeable with some minor modifications.

The YJ used a 2.5 L AMC 150 I4 or optional 4.2 L AMC 258 I6 until 1991. That year, a fuel injected 180 hp (134 kW) 4.0 L AMC 242 variant replaced the 112 hp (84 kW) 4.2 L straight-6. The NP207 transfer case was used only in 1987 and replaced by the NP231

The roll cage was extended in 1992 to allow for rear shoulder belts, and anti-lock brakes were added as an option the next year. An automatic transmission option for 4-cylinder Wranglers came in 1994 along with a center high-mounted stop light.

In 1994, the slave cylinder on manual transmissions was moved outside of the transmission's bellhousing to allow for easier replacement, and in 1995 larger U-joints were used.

The review below is written by thermocouplerelay, I’m really impressed with his review, it is exactly represent the YJ/TJ Wrangler situation.

Wrangler Jeep, whether you buy a hardtop or a ragtop, you can take the top off drive down to the beach (right up to the surf), snake through fire roads to a secluded campsite, or just look darn cool in the high school parking lot--whether you're a teenager or not!. You can take your dog down to the river for a little swim, then have him jump in and not be concerned about messing up your weather-resistant seats. With the turning radius of a bulldozer, and being short and providing good visibility of its ends, it's also a great urban vehicle; you can parallel park in spots an SUV could only dream about. And let's not forget the ability to park in spots that normal people wouldn't even notice as a spot, like a muddy grass at a festival where they have you parking in a field.. And with real 4wd, not that awd stuff where the front and rear axles are not locked together, a foot of freshly fallen snow won't keep you from getting out to shovel your parents' driveway at the crack of dawn after a blizzard. For Southerners, after a hurricane washes sand across the highway, and in some cases the blacktop has eroded away, or tree branches litter the streets after a major storm, that won't stop you either. Of course you should never drive through flood water, but just in case you had to, Jeep designed the TJ (1997-2006 Wrangler) to wade through water up to the headlights.

Unfortunately there is a price to pay for driving such an incredibly uncompromising vehicle. It's noisy, and it bounces around. In old CJs and square-headlight Wranglers, it's so noisy at highway speeds you can barely talk to the person next to you. The hard top deadens the noise a little, but with big knobby tires and wind whipping around a flat windshield, it's no library. With that classic design comes a complete lack of aerodynamics, and that means poor gas mileage. The 97 up TJ Wrangler had the windshield swept back a bit more, but gas mileage is still well below 20mpg. With a ragtop, you can't lock anything inside unless you purchase an insta-trunk from Quadratec or the Jeep dealer. This will give you a small, maybe 3-4 cu ft enclosure to lock up some tools, a purse or other small items, creating a small trunk in front of the locking tailgate. Of course now you have lost most of the space in the back for when you want to carry things like bags of mulch, groceries, patio pavers, or large boxes. With the rear seat removed, there is actually quite a bit of cargo room, which is easily accessible by the swing-out tailgate. There is a locking center console and a locking glove box, but are plastic compartments ever truly locked? Best bet: get a hardtop. If you're buying used, the increased cost will be minimal. You can take the hard top off almost as easily as the soft top (just need to find a place to store it); you can lock stuff inside; and it will last the life of the vehicle. No matter how well you take care of them, the soft tops need to be replaced every few years ($500-800). The only drawback with a hardtop is that when you take it off you still have the full frame doors which look kind of goofy. Solution: pull the doors off. They're made to come off by pulling the two hinge pins. Just make sure you buy some mirror relocator brackets from Quadratec so you can mount them via the screws on the windshield; otherwise you might get a ticket (or worse, cut somebody off). And buy a $90 bikini top (piece of canvas that only covers the front seats and ties to the rear) to protect you when you inevitably get caught in the rain.

Upgrades from the CJ-7 (made by AMC) to the square-headlight Wrangler (designed by AMC but made by Chrysler--right after they bought the Jeep nameplate): new interior, with gauges arranged in a somewhat egronomic way, rather than just where they fit in the sheetmetal; new funky square headlights (which apparently only the guy who designed them thought was a good idea); and after a year or two, the old CJ-vintage 258 cu in (4.2L) straight six with a Carter 2bbl was replaced with a "high output" throttle-body injected 4.0L straight six. The 4.0L survived with only minor changes (multi-port injection in TJs) through the 2006 model. This year it has finally been retired in favor of a 3.8L V-6. The old faithful 4.0L was the premium engine in Wranglers and Cherokees and the base engine in 1st and 2nd gen Grand Cherokees.

Some of the upgrades from the square headlight Wrangler to the newer round-headlight TJ Wrangler include: (obviously) the old-school round headlights; leaf-springs replaced by coil springs for a better ride on and off-road; nicer interior with dual airbags; optional Dana 44 3/4 ton axles for serious off-roading (not necessary for 99% of the people who buy Jeeps); an easier to use framework system for the soft-top which keeps it tighter (quieter) and makes it easier to remove; room in the wheel wells for 31x10.50R15 (equal to 255/75R15) tires with the stock 7" wide rims (old Wrangler could only accept 235/75R15--two sizes smaller).

I highly discourage buying a 4 cyl. They are ridiculously underpowered, and get about the same mileage as the 6cyl. If you're that concerned about mileage, maybe Jeeps aren't for you. The combination of weight and drag from the four-wheel-drive system and aerodynamics of a brick make for very poor gas mileage. Great second or third vehicle; not so great primary commuter.

Though the Jeep 4.0L straight-six is among the most reliable engines ever to come out of Detroit, chances are, the exhaust manifold has or will go bad. You can tell this by a slight hissing sound when the engine is running, or when you accelerate while driving. Banks and Borla both make great stainless steel headers (a header is a tubular pipe that is the first part of the exhaust system leaving the engine head--when a cast iron grouping of pipes is used, it's called a manifold). It's not the kind of thing that will leave you stranded, and you generally notice it getting worse over a period of a few months--plenty of time to catch it.

What kind of tires do you want to put on your Jeep? If you buy a Jeep that originally had little little tires (225/75R15 or smaller), and you go out and buy wide aftermarket rims and 31" tires (Rubicon size), you'll probably find that it now accelerates like a dog and you can't use 5th gear or the engine will bog down. This is because your axles are geared at 3.07:1, which is not appropriate for larger (cool-looking) tires. You can tell what ratio it has by crawling on your belly and looking at a small steel tag on the back of the differential housing (that pumpkin-looking thing in the middle of the axle). Look for a 3.73 or higher if you want to put bigger tires on. Your best option is to get a TJ which came with the 30" tire option. A factory tow package should ensure you have an adequate gear ratio for up to 31" tires. Also, for some reason they usually gave Jeeps with automatic transmissions higher ratios, more appropriate for larger tires. Remember the final drive ratio has nothing to do with the transmission, it's the relationship of the number of teeth on the ring gear vs the pinion in the axle housings. The higher the final drive ratio the "lower" the gearing.

Now that you've bought your Jeep, go out and have some fun. You can contact your local forrestery dept to find out where you're allowed to drive off-road. There are actually open trails all over the place. If you drive on private land without permission you can be arrested for trespassing. And making a mess on trails you're permitted on will only ruin it for future wheelers. Off roading is about creeping through difficult terrain and driving up near-vertical cliffs (and hitting the occasional mud pit if it's designated for that purpose by its owner), not doing donuts in a cornfield. Keep it in 4 Lo when crawling over rocks or up super steep grades to avoid overloading the auto trans or manual clutch. It sounds cliche, but you really need to get out there and see what your Jeep can do--just once--to appreciate it. So many people buy Jeeps solely for the look and never venture off-road. That's like buying a plane and just taxiiing around the airport! That short-wheelbase, high-clearance design is not just for looks. You'll be grinning from ear to ear once you leave the pavement.

Final notes:
Good for kids, grown-ups with no kids, grown-ups with kids out of the house. Not good for grown-ups with multiple little kids. Our Yukon holds just a bit more than the little TJ it replaced. Beleve me, it was tough to sell a vehicle which had given me five good years and had absolutely no problems, just because we'd outgrown it. And it's even worse when that vehicle is an American icon that never gets old. I sure do miss her. A nine-year-old. It still looked and ran like brand new. I always wanted to buy some aluminum rims but never got around to it. I did get the ARB air locker installed after having it for two years. Looking back and comparing how many times I had to use it (5) vs the cost (about $2,000.00 when all was said and done), it was a colossal waste of money--$400 per use! But it sure was comforting to know it was back there when the going got tough. From now on, I'm buying trucks with the differential lock already installed!

Death Wobble (1)

Since I have quiet a lot of experienced dealing with death wooble in my cherokee and grand cherokee jeep, I will post several articles for this subject including my own experience. The next article wrote by Nathaniel Long three years ago, its can use as basic reference for death wobble.

If you drive a Jeep Cherokee or Grand Cherokee and are considering a suspension lift, you may want to think twice. Unfortunately, I was forced to learn this the hard way. I bought a brand new 2001 Jeep Cherokee a couple years ago, and almost immediately stacked on Pro Comp’s 3” lift kit with some 32 x 11.50 r 15 Super Swamper TSL tires. After a couple months of good riding, I started to experience what jeep enthusiasts have come to know as “the death wobble.”

The death wobble is basically when you are driving your lifted jeep down the road and the front end starts to shake violently. It can happen at virtually any speed, though mostly above 40 mph or so, and is a frightening experience, especially for those witnessing it for the first time. Now it doesn’t throw you off the road or anything … the front end just shakes. And the only way to stop it is to slow down and pull over. So it wasn’t that hard to get used to at first. But as it happened more and more, it seemed to get more and more out of control.

After driving with at least one death wobble per day for about three months, I decided to take it into the shop and see what the problem was. Being of course that off-road shops are primarily in the business of ripping people off, they gave me a list of “everything that was wrong with the front end that is causing the ‘TJ shimmy.’” Their proposal included the rotation and balancing of my tires, new front (and rear “cause you might as well”) shocks, new and stronger track bar, new and stronger drop pitman arm, new and stronger lower control arms with some special urethane bushings, and new sway bar links. Basically, with the exception of my original lift springs, the reinstallation of the entire Pro Comp lift kit with “better” components.

The bill was just over $1000.00. But to fix my death wobble, and hence my daily fear for my life, it was worth it. And even better, the new components would be strong enough to support a 6” lift if I ever wanted to go that big. The words of the salesman still ring in my ears: “Dude, you could totally run 35s with this setup.”

For the next couple months, everything ran fine again and I just assumed that my former Pro Comp parts just sucked. I even took the kid’s advice and jumped up to 33 x 12.50 r 15 tires. My new components were working brilliantly. Then one day, riding down I-70 toward the mountains, I hit a pothole and back came the death wobble. For the next couple months, I experienced the death wobble every time I hit a pothole, crack, or even merged onto a simple uneven lane.

Back at the shop, the guys, obviously not recognizing me from six months before, gave me the same proposal as the first time … almost word for word, too. My shocks, track bar, pitman arm and control arms were all shot again and needed replaced with their “better and stronger components.” The guys didn’t even take the time to see if my components were the same ones they had sitting on the shelf. In fact, the parts they wanted to give me this time were likely the same Pro Comp components they had replaced initially. At this point, I realized that I’d have to take matters into my own hands.

I had a buddy sit in the driver’s seat of my jeep and shake the steering wheel back and forth in an attempt to recreate the death wobble so I could view it from the other side. After not even two minutes, it became clear to me what the problem was. All my components were fine. The shaking was coming from the frame rail, which is connected to the axle.

What was happening was simple: My tires, as off road tires tend to do, kept going out of balance. Therefore, when I hit a pothole or uneven pavement, or too high a road speed, the tires would start to wobble and fight back and forth against each other. This is probably how Fred Flintstone felt driving around with those rock tires. The fighting tires would cause the axle to shake back and forth, which in turn caused the frame rail to shake. Hence the death wobble. Now the wobble could have been stabilized by the bar attached to the frame rail; if only it was attached to a real frame.

See, Jeep Cherokees and Grand Cherokees have what is referred to as a unibody design. This means that they don’t have frames like a real vehicle, just a combination between a frame and a body. It’s kind of like a tin can on wheels. And if you put tires under that tin can that are too big and heavy for it to handle, it’s going to shake all over the road.

Now I’m not saying don’t lift your Cherokee, I’m just saying don’t lift your Cherokee too high. It can handle 31s or 32s, but if you get any bigger or heavier tires, it won’t be strong enough to consistently support them. If you want to lift a Jeep vehicle for off road purposes, I’d recommend a Wrangler. It has a frame, meaning it can handle big and heavy tires, not to mention a roll over.

If you’ve already got a Jeep Cherokee and are experiencing death wobble, don’t listen to the guys at the shop. They’re just trying to get your money! Test each of the components of your front end yourself. Most of them are rock solid and rarely need replacement. Instead, just get your tires balanced. It should fix the problem right away, at least until the tires go out of balance again. To end it permanently, unless you can somehow fabricate a stabilizer bar to strengthen the front-end frame rail, the only thing you can really do is switch down to smaller tires. Or buy a normal road car …

What you did for your zj jeep?

As a Grand Cherokee Jeep (ZJ) owner with adventure gen in my blood, I can't let the jeep with the standard appearance, I really want to customized my jeep as long as my pocket can afford it.

Stock Grand Cherokee:

- Tire: coming with 235/70 R15 HT (highway terrain) tires, its good for asphalt road, very poor in dirty road, and absolutely useless in muddy road.

- Light: poor quality headlight, useless fog lamp.

- Differential Lock: none, the stock GC coming with limited slip differential, its not enough for real off road condition.

- Sound system: standard mopar head unit, no cd changer, small infinity power amp, no sub.

- suspension: excessive body roll

Modification stage 1:

- reduced the body roll: change the stock shock absorber with harder and stiffer one. You can find a various Jeep Lift Kits & Suspension from 4WD Hardware likes Procomp or OME products, also change the coil spring with a stiffer one.

- With a taller new spring and shock, 31" All Terrain can fix easily. Small clearance (about 2 fingers) between the fender and tire. Add 3/4" PU coil spacer to gain additional 2" high totally.

- Change the headlamp and the headlamp wire with a better product

- Install a pair of additional fog lamp or driving light, PIAA or Hella products are recommended

- Change the standard Mopar head unit with after market product (mine is Alpine), change the Infinity power amp with a higher output rate, add cd changer and subwoofer.

With this modification, the jeep ready for light adventure journey, rolling in dirty road or go camping near the beach.

For muddy road or slightly steep hills climbing? not ready yet, modification stage 2 needed:

- change the 3/4" coil spacer with 2" budget boost like TeraFlex product.

- install disconnect stabilizer link go get a better suspension travel.

- Change the AT tire with MT (mud terrain) type tire with the same diameter (31"), you can put bigger diameter, however you need to trim your fender (I wouldn't do that).

- adjust the track bar, otherwise you will get "death wobble" experience, and also go to the workshop for alignment.

- Install a new front bumper with ARB style bumper, add a medium strenght winch, like Warn M8000 , Warn xd9000 or Tabor products for cheaper price.

- Install a differential lock.

- And if you likes travelling for a long time, you can install a roof rack for additional baggage place.

Now the jeep ready for medium light off road, going camping in the mountain or fishing in the river mouth with your family.

Hard core off road??

No, not with this car, I prefer TJ or YJ wrangler or FJ Toyota.

Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 2002

Car Review : Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 2002

I bough this second hand ZJ Jeep at late 2005 with 16.000km in odo reading. This is the first generation Grand Cherokee, the latest product was 2002 for export market, in US itself the latest product was 1998, than starting from 1999 the model changed to WJ type. This Grand Cherokee basically have a distinctive different with the predecessor Cherokee (XJ) Jeep. The body is bigger and longer than XJ. This ZJ already used coil spring in all wheel instead of leaf spring in XJ rear axle. The front facia is still have strong jeep image with 7 holes grill, however the rear body become more rounded edge compare to the XJ.

This is a`brief specification of my Grand Cherokee ZJ:

engine 4000 cc, petrol

power 197 hp

torque approx. 300 Nm

type laredo with plastic side panel and bumper

automatic transmission

full time 4WD with Quadra Trac type transfer case.

Several reasons for choosing this Jeep:

1. I'm looking for mid size SUV
2. Should have 4WD option for light off road and dirty road
3. Though and simple engine (the jeep 4.0 i engine has proved it)
4. Comfortable and big enough for loading a camping gear
5. Automatic Transmission
6. ABS and airbag

This Grand Cherokee equipped with very comfortable leather seat, OEM tape and radio (Mopar product), generally is ready for long distance rolling with my small family. Immediately after bought this Jeep, I'd recognized some problems like: noisy sound from front final gear and damage front drive shaft boot. I'd replaced the front ring and pinion and also installed a new drive shaft boot. The ring and pinion its quite expensive, its cost me around Rp 7M (approx US$ 800) for parts and labour. I'd also changed the stabilizer link and break pads.

Three weeks later I brought this ZJ to light off road track, I also bring my family with me. The location is around Tangkuban Prahu in West Java. In totally dark condition (we drove in midnight), the stock tire (29" size) lost its grip, the Jeep running zig-zag in muddy road, and oftenly stuck in deeper mud or stuck by big rock. Fortunately there is another full modified 4WD vehicles (suzuki jimny SJ40) accompanied and helped us. In very narrow road, my jeep rolling to the driver side, and the suzuki helped us again. Lot of scratches in the body paint, however after several washes, the scratch were disappeared.

First upgrade was the sound system, I'd changed the head unit with Alpine product, replaced the OEM infinity power amp with higher power (rockford), added a CD changer and sub woofer, also change all OEM speakers (infinity) with better quality speakers (Quad product).

Then the suspension, the original shock feel to soft, the body roll while cornering was obvious. Changed the shock complete with the coil spring with Old Man Emu (OME) product, this new shock and coil spring have longer lenght than the original, the jeep will taller 1-1/4", I also add 3/4" coil spacer, so the jeep high increase 2" totally. This high body is meaningless if not followed by changed the stock tire for better ground clearance. I choose 31"x10.5 R15 Dunlop Grantrek All Terrain, this is the biggest tire can fit with current suspension condition, can't fit bigger, otherwise the tire will scratch the fender. With those modification, the ZJ jeep looks better and nicer. The changed of original suspension with added longer coil & shock plus budget boost spacer caused a significantly changed in wheel alignment. My Jeep has several times "death wobble" experienced, its scary, after hit a small bump or hole the whole steering wheel and body shaking violently in normal driving speed (70-120 km/h). Wheel alignment is needed to cure the death wobble, we should explain clearly to the alignment operator what actually happen with the Jeep. I installed one additional steering shock for better handling.

A pair of Warn driving light installed in front and one additional light in the back. New towing bar made in thailand was installed. I changed the damage muffler with local product (made in Brewok), the muffler manufacture claimed that his muffler is better than the famous Borla product.

The additional ground clearance has proved its effectiveness during big flood in Jakarta. The ZJ Jeep can crossed 1 m high flooding water easily with out any problem. High ground clearance also help in dirty and off road track, my rig can passed the road obstacles. The OME shock and spring reduced car body roll significantly.

The are some notes for my ZJ Grand:

1. Bullet proof engine, bit old but easy to maintain.
2. Strong solid axle, good suspension.
3. Poor AC condition, small evaporator (made by Sanden) and difficult location, not easy to maintain. I've change my evaporator due to leaking in some places. Small compressor (Denso), broken after 4 year, installed a new one. Noisy blower in cabin, don't know how to reduce it.
4. The electric fan was easy to broken.
5. Useful Plastic body panel during off road, reduce paint scratch in body, easy to clean up.
6. Good dashboard information gauge, including the important battery charge meter and oil pressure gauge.
7. Spare tire located inside the cabin, reduce the luggage area volume.
   

Currently I use this ZJ Jeep as daily car, no complain and no problem for the engine. The OME shock start to weaken after one year. I've plan to continue upgrading the jeep in near future, as follow:

1. Install nerf bar and side step, local made.
2. Change the rear plastic bumper with custom made bumper with tire hanger.
3. Change the front bumper with ARB style bumper plus winch.

Useful link:

• Jeep Forum for technical and up-grade info
• Jeep Parts & Accessories from 4WD Hardware
  
• Jeep Club Indonesia