Motorcycle Stators - What Are They?

After struggling with my Honda CX500 stator, I'm bit curious about this electrical thing. Then found this article from Electrosport.





In simple terms, a stator can be defined as the stationary part of an alternator. In order to understand what the stator does, it is helpful to know how a basic electrical system works.

The electrical system on most vehicles includes a way to generate, store, and use electricity. An alternator generates power by producing AC (alternating current). Alternating current is often used exclusively to power halogen bulbs, tail lights, and some ignition systems on mopeds, dirt bikes, and ATVs. Any motorcycle that has a starter motor must also have a battery for powering it. Batteries cannot store AC current; therefore current must be converted into a storable form known as DC (direct current). A component known as the regulator/rectifier performs this conversion. The rectifier actually converts the current from AC to DC, while the regulator keeps the power level (voltage) from going above the 13.8 -14.5 volts needed to power a standard 12 volt battery. It is important that the stator provides more power than needed by the motorcycle so that the battery will stay charged. If the motorcycle uses more power than the stator can provide, the battery will start to drain. This will typically happen if the voltage drops below 13 volts.

A traditional alternator uses a coil that uses DC power from the battery to produce a magnetic field. This coil is wound on a spool and is sandwiched between two metal flywheels with fingers of metal that alternate from one side to the other. When this coil is powered, it makes each finger have a magnetic field. These alternate with each finger between north and south pole. As this assembly spins, the alternating poles of magnetism energize the outer windings of the alternator to produce AC power. The benefit to this type of system is that it can produce more power at lower engine speeds which is why most cars and trucks use this system. The down-side to this system is that it requires a charged battery to work. Motorcycles often require a lighter weight system that can produce power with no battery installed or with a small battery. This requires a slightly different way of making power.

The alternator on a motorcycle or ATV converts kinetic energy (power of motion) into electrical energy to charge the battery. An alternator is made up of two parts; the stator and the magnet rotor, also known as the flywheel. The rotor or flywheel contains permanent magnets and spins around the stator to produce energy. Energy use varies from motorcycle to motorcycle and as a result, individual stators may differ. Some stators produce AC power for the ignition system only while others produce AC which is then converted to DC for powering lighting, ignition computers, fuel injection, etc.

Stator designs vary widely but all work on the same principles. When a magnet is moved past a coil of wire, it causes the coil to produce a burst of electricity. A stator has between four to eighteen spokes or poles arranged in a circle similar to the spokes on a wagon wheel. These spokes have an iron core made of a number of thin plates stacked on top of one another. Each spoke has copper magnet wire wound around it. Some stators use a single coil spread across a few poles while others use a few coils with different windings and wire sizes on a single stator.

Still others are split into three evenly divided sections called three-phase, used for high powered output to be converted to DC. Three-phase stators are easily recognizable by three yellow or white output wires. The winding, length, and diameter of the copper wire is customized to suit the power requirements of each motorcycle, as well as optimize the ignition system's power output and starting capability.

Some stators include a pulser or pickup coil. This small coil is mounted separately to the motor or to a mounting plate, allowing it to sense the crank angle via one or more small bumps on the outside of the flywheel. The coil must be placed between 0.02 and 0.50 mm away from the highest part of this bump or "trigger". The input from this coil is sent to the ignition computer (CDI), where the spark timing is calculated. Some CDIs are powered with AC power from a specific coil, called a source coil, which is wound with fine wire. Other CDIs may be powered by DC current produced by a stator, regulator/rectifier, and battery combination. The current from the CDI is sent to the ignition coil and magnified to over 10,000 volts. It is then sent to the spark plug.

Most of our stators include a full wiring harness allowing for easy installation. It is important to note that we often include upgraded features on our performance stators, and as a result, these stators may look slightly different than the OEM units. In addition, some of the testing procedures used for OEM stators may not apply to our parts due to optimized windings.

SAVING GAS TIPS

This issue "popular" again,

ENGINE WARM-UP

1. Avoid prolonged warming up of engine, 30 to 45 seconds is enough (even in winter time), for old car (more than 6-7 years old) probably needs a bit more time (1-2 minutes)

2. Check/listen to the rpm idle, be sure the automatic choke is disengaged after engine warm up.

3. Don't start and stop engine needlessly. Idling your engine for one minute consumes the gas amount equivalent to when you start the engine.

4. Avoid "reving" the engine, especially just before you switch the engine off; this wastes fuel needlessly and washes oil down from the inside cylinder walls, owing to loss of oil pressure, this process also can damaged your turbo system if equipped

5. Eliminate "racing type" starts. Accelerate slowly when starting from stop, at least for the first 200-300m.

BUYING GASOLINE

1. Don't let your fuel tank close to empty, empty fuel tank store more fuel vapour and increase pressure in gas tank

2. Buy gasoline during coolest time of day - early morning or late evening is best. During these times gasoline is densest. Keep in mind - gas pumps measure volumes of gasoline, not densities of fuel concentration. You are charged according to "volume of measurement".

3. Choose type and brand of gasoline carefully. Certain brands provide you with greater economy because of better quality. Use the brands which "seem" most beneficial.

4. Avoid filling gas tank to top. Overfilling results in sloshing over and out of tank. Never fill gas tank past the first "click" of fuel nozzle, if nozzle is automatic.

DRIVE ECONOMICALLY

1. Never exceed legal speed limit. Primarily they are set for your traveling safety, however better gas efficiency also occurs. Traveling at 55 mph give you up to 21% better mileage when compared to former legal speed limits of 65 mph and 70 mph.

2. Traveling at fast rates in low gears can consume up to 45% more fuel than is needed.

3. Manual shift driven cars allow you to change to highest gear as soon as possible, thereby letting you save gas if you "nurse it along". However, if you cause the engine to "bog down", premature wearing of engine parts occurs.

4. Keep windows closed when traveling at highway speeds. Open windows cause air drag, reducing your mileage by 10%.

5. Drive steadily. Slowing down or speeding up wastes fuel. Also avoid tailgating - the driver in front of you is unpredictable. Not only is it unsafe, but if affects your economy, if he slows down unexpectedly.

6.Think ahead when approaching hills. If you accelerate, do it before you reach the hill, not while you're on it.

GENERAL ADVICE

1. Do not rest left foot on floor board pedals while driving. The slightest pressure puts "mechanical drag" on components, wearing them down prematurely. This "dragging" also demands additional fuel usage.

2. Avoid rough roads whenever possible, because dirt or gravel rob you of up to 30% of your gas mileage.

3. Use alternate roads when safer, shorter, straighter. Compare traveling distance differences - remember that corners, curves and lane jumping requires extra gas. The shortest distance between two points is always straight.

4. Stoplights are usually timed for your motoring advantage. By traveling steadily at the legal speed limit you boost your chances of having the "green light" all the way.

5. Automatic transmissions should be allowed to cool down when your car is idling at a standstill, e.g. railroad crossings, long traffic lights, etc. Place gear into neutral position. This reduces transmission strain and allows transmission to cool.

6. Park car so that you can later begin to travel in forward gear; avoid reverse gear maneuvers to save gas.

7. Regular tune-ups ensure best economy; check owner's manual for recommended maintenance intervals. Special attention should be given to maintaining clean air filters... diminished air flow increases gas waste.

8. Inspect suspension and chassis parts for occasional misalignment. Bent wheels, axles, bad shocks, broken springs, etc. create engine drag and are unsafe at high traveling speeds.

9. Remove snow tires during good weather seasons; traveling on deep tire tread really robs fuel!

10. Inflate all tires to maximum limit. Each tire should be periodically spun, balanced and checked for out-of-round. When shopping for new tires, get large diameter tires for rear wheels. Radial designs are the recognized fuel-savers; check manufacturer's specifications for maximum tire pressures.

11. Remove vinyl tops - they cause air drag. Rough surfaces disturb otherwise smooth air flow around a car's body. Bear in mind when buying new cars that a fancy sun roof helps disturb smooth air flow (and mileage).

12. Auto air conditioners can reduce fuel economy by 10% to 20%. Heater fan, power windows and seats increase engine load; the more load on your engine, the less miles per gallon.

13. Remove excess weight from trunk or inside of car - extra tires, back seats, unnecessary heavy parts. Extra weight reduces mileage, especially when driving up inclines.

14. Car pools reduce travel monotony and gas expense - all riders chip in to help you buy. Conversation helps to keep the driver alert. Pooling also reduces traffic congestion, gives the driver easier maneuverability and greater "steady speed" economy. For best results, distribute passenger weight evenly throughout car.

15. During cold weather watch for icicles frozen to car frame. Up to 100 lbs. can be quickly accumulated! Unremoved snow and ice cause tremendous wind resistance. Warm water thrown on (or hosed on) will eliminate it fast.

EXTRA TIPS

Use public transport ........

originally written by Ernest Miles, modified by Explorer

Tips: How to use the emission test result

Most of the people think that the emission test is for pollution control, it is true, however the engine condition can also predicted from the emission test result. Herewith some of information that we can get from the emission test result (base on EURO II spec) :

CO content (maximum 2.5%)
CO content is depend on mixing composition between air and fuel. If the result more than 2.5%, check the following:

• Air filter, probably dirty
• Throttle choke, clean it from carbon deposit
• Adjust the air-fuel mixing in the carburetor or check the CO sensor for an fuel injection engine.
• If your car still using carburetor, clean the intake.
  
• Check and clean the injector

HC (Hydro Carbon) content, maximum 400 ppm
This one related to combustion process. If the result exceeds 400 ppm, try the following step:

• Check the spark plugs, spark plug cables and ignition coil
• Check and adjust the spark timing, advance timing could rise the HC content.
• Measure the combustion chamber compression (with compression meter), if the result lower than it should be (read the vehicles manual), probably there is a leak in compression.

O2 (Oxygen) , 0.5 – 2 %

The O2 is burn during combustion process, so the test result should be as low as possible. If higher than 2%, it sign of leaking in exhaust system

• Check the muffler condition
• Check exhaust manifold gasket for leak
• Check the exhaust pipe connection for leak

CO2 (Carbon dioxide), > 12%
A perfect combustion will produce high CO2 with little bit water. If the CO2 content lower than 12%, we can suspect some problems:

• The composition of air and fuel mixture was not balance, too rich of fuel or lean of fuel.
• Compare the CO2 result with HC and CO results.

Lambda 0.95 – 1.05
Lambda is a number showing the mixture of air and fuel. Lambda 1 is perfect number, that mean the mixture is 14.7 (air) : 1 (fuel). If the Lambda more than 1.05 , that mean fuel percentage less than it should be, the engine will knocking, less power and tend to be overheat. If the lambda number less than 0.95, the fuel consumption tends to be higher.

Tips: Cooling System, problem symptoms and solution

• The engine temperature rise when the AC turn off. Check the thermoswitch, probably not normally functioning, the cooling fan only run when the AC turn on.
• The temperature rise in high speed. Radiator clogging, go for service or replace with a new one.
• The engine still cold even for long distance. The thermostat valve always open, replace the thermostat.
• Coolant fluid decreasing constantly. Probably leaking, observe the cooling system (radiator, hoses, reservoir, engine) while engine running, find the leaking location.
• Reservoir full of coolant, and less coolant in radiator. Probably cause of abnormal function of radiator cap, change the cap.
• Bubbles in radiator while engine runs. Compression leaking, can be in the cylinder head gasket, or water jacket. Go to the workshop immediately for complete diagnose and repair.
• Coolant fluid mix with oil (like a milkshake). Warning!! This is a serious condition, it could be leaking in cylinder head gasket, water jacket or transmission oil cooler. Drain all fluid immediately (coolant and engine oil). Small amount of water can start rust inside the engine.
• Dirty coolant fluid (brown). Rust inside cooling system. Change the coolant fluid, put a radiator flush before drained.
• The cooling fan always running in any temperature condition (for engine powered fan). Check the viscous coupling.
• Temperature rise in slow speed or traffic jam. Check the electric fan, check the wiring.

Tips: Cooling System, parts and potential problems

Vehicle cooling system works basically is simple: to absorb the heat produced by combustion chambers by circulating fluid inside the engine. After absorbed heat in the engine, the coolant fluid circulated to radiator for releasing heat and as result the coolant temperature goes down.

The cooling system parts and its potential problems.

• Radiator coolant. Water can act as coolant fluid, however the water boiling point is not to high compare to engine temperature, and in other hand, a poor quality water can produce rust inside cooling system. Normally, a modern car use a special coolant fluid, this fluid has higher boiling temperature and will not make rust or corrosion inside cooling system. Inspect the level of coolant fluid regularly. Replace the coolant fluid as required in your vehicle owner manual.
• Radiator. Is the place for the coolant fluid to release the heat. Most of modern car radiator made by aluminum. Clean the radiator surface regularly, especially after crossing a muddy road.
• Radiator Cap. Radiator cap act as a valve triggered by pressure, normally 0.7 or 0.9 bar. That mean the valve will open above the above pressure number and the fluid will flowing from radiator to the circulation reservoir. If you find the reservoir if full and the fluid is not back to the radiator when the engine is cold, that indicated the radiator cap not functioning normally.
• Radiator Fan / Cooling Fan. There are two types of radiator fan, first the electric powered fan, and the second is the engine powered fan. The electric fan controlled by thermoswitch, as a sensor of coolant fluid temperature. The engine powered fan normally equipped with viscous coupling. The engine powered fan it self is rarely broken, most of the time the problem came from the viscous coupling. Far the electric powered fan, the problem can be arise due to fan motor damage or the thermoswitch is not functioning.
• Water pump. To circulate the fluid from the radiator to the engine vice versa normally use an engine powered water pump. Some times the water pump seal worn and leaking, it will cause loosing fluid and engine temperature increase due to slow/less circulation or pressure build by the pump.
• Thermostat. Thermostat working as a one way valve that start opening in certain temperature (87 – 96 deg C). This part will keep the engine work in optimum temperature (not to low).
• Radiator hose. This hose connected the radiator and the engine. Usually there are two hoses, in and out from the radiator. The hose quality will decrease by time, become harder and at certain point will broken. Check your radiator hoses regularly, especially if your car have been use more than 3 years.
• Reserve Reservoir. Observed for leaking.
• Water Jacket. Water jacket is a small hole for circulating fluid around engine block.
• Cylinder head. The water jacket also goes through cylinder head. A leaking can be occur around the cylinder head gasket or in the wall of the cylinder head itself. This leaks could be triggered by overheat.
• Oil cooler. Automatic transmission car equipped with oil cooler. Some times this cooler is leaking and the oil mixed with water. It is a serious condition, the water can hammered the piston.

Tips: Engine Oil Color

Knowing engine damage earlier could prevent issuing more cost. Can you imagine if the car overhead because its lubricant decreased, continued running on the road? Possibly all the rubbing component will be damage.

To know the engine condition, evidently could be detected through the color of the engine oil. The change in the color of engine oil could determine whether the component inside was still healthy or already have much damage. Engine oil color observation could give us a preliminary diagnostic of the engine condition.

Yellow (clear and transparent)
This is a new oil color, or new oil pouring to the engine. The engine has not start yet or just start for short time.

Brownish Yellow
The engine had been used to go. The condition was still being considered to be normal, probably the car have been used for 1.000-2.000 km. Did not need the change.

Black
Engine oil was black as a result of the car has gone around 3.000-4.000 km. Better be replaced with that was new when the interval have been reach, maximal the use normally around 5.000 km up to 10,000 km (depend on engine oil specification) . More than that, interval the engine temperature could be raised due to poor oil quality and as a result could damage the engine component. If the engine oil became black only after few weeks or short distance, it could be a problem inside the engine. The problems might be caused by amount of sludge especially for vehicles that use for more than 5 years. Engine flushing is recommended for this type of problems.

Dirty Black
This color indicated that the engine oil was mixed with oil sludge and metal component as result of engine component friction. It is a danger warning sign, the engine component and lining probably have been worn. Try to change the oil immediately, if the results still the same, inspect the engine interior component, probably needs an overhaul.

Milky Brown
This is resulting from oil mixed with water. It can be happen for several causes i.e:

• Leaking top head gasket
• Leaking/damage oil cooler
• Or improper oil filter installation

This milky brown color is a serious warning indication. Do not start the car (can cause a water hammer), drain all fluid (oil and coolant) from the engine immediately. Late action can cause rust developed inside the engine. See my previous posting about water inside the engine.

So, what are you waiting for? Check your engine oil color.

Tips: Cleaning Your Car Wheels

Have you washed your car correctly, clean and dry? Most off us will answer, yes. Probably not for the wheels. This component usually have many indentations and bars. If not thorough, many parts that were not yet dry and if being left for long time will be spotty, fleck, or might be fungus.

During cleaning, the dirty area most often was seen around nipples and the wheel interior, As a result the waste and dirty fleck built up in this place. To eliminate this we can use soft white compound, or using a especially anti fungus for wind shield to clean the wheel dirty spot.



This time I’m writing tips for using ant fungus liquid for the windshield as a wheel cleaner. The process of the removal of the fast fungus and the price of the liquid was not too expensive. Lets start clean your wheels:

• Poured the liquid to the soft brush.
• Quick wore to the wheel. Continued brushing until foamed. Note: this liquid should immediately wipe before it dried.
• Do not apply the liquid too much, it is a strong chemical compound, it can damage the wheel varnish
• After the foam change to brown or was seen dirty, stop applying the liquid, and wipe the cleaning area until dry.
• Wash the wheel with clean water to remove all dirt and the anti-fungus liquid, then dried the wheel with clean cloth.

Note: the anti fungus liquid for wind shield is a strong chemical compound, wear your safety glove and glasses when worked with it.

Turbo for all Mercedes Benz line-up

All Mercedes-Benz line-up will use the machine turbocharger within two half of the year in the future. This assurance was sent by the member and the development of the research council of Daimler, Thomas Weber, on Thursday (17/7), in Dusseldorf, Germany.

“We will install the machine turbocharger to all of our vehicle product as soon as possible before the year end 2010,” revealed Weber.

This decision, was said by Weber, was part of the effort of Mercedes-Benz was free from the pressure the increasingly high regulation of the limit of vehicle emissions that

immediately will put into effect in Europe and the United States. To be learnt, during 2012 Europe planned to carry out the reduction in the emissions threshold from 178 gram per kilometer to 138 g/km.

Beside rumors of emissions, the market request would the increasingly big vehicle of the energy opinion also provided a basis for the new strategy of this Mercedes-Benz. According to Weber, now the consumer needs the method was cheapest overcame the height of the price of the fuel.

Therefore, Weber considered the increase turbocharger became the appropriate choice. Apart from being easy to be installed, the device turbocharger did not increase the vehicle weight significantly. Now with turbocharger the efficiency profit and the increase in the performance of the vehicle could be maximized. Weber also explained that the first step in his side faced the emissions pressure and the price of the increasingly high oil will be followed by the middle stage strategy. In this stage of Mercedes-Benz will speed up the mass production of the vehicle hybrid. His step personally immediately will be realized when the sale of the premium sedan of S-class hybrid in began in 2009.

While responding to the long-term plan the German government appointed zero-emissions in his country, Weber confirmed Mercedes-Benz also was ready in this condition. In order to faces this demand of Weber said his side prepared the technology vehicle fuel cell and the electric power. During 2010, for example, Smart— Mercedes-Benz alliance —will began produce the mini vehicle ForTwo electric powered vehicle.

Tips: Buying A New Car

Most of people who wish to buy a new car have a clear picture in their mind of the type of car that they want, or at the very least some idea of whether they want a saloon or a hatchback. However by the time they have visited the showroom they can leave the driving court away with something very different from what they envisaged. The reason behind this could be the salesman persuading you away from what you know is the right choice or you simply buy on impulse only and then realize your mistake later.

Here are some practical tips to help ensure you don’t make a big mistake when it comes to purchasing your car.

1. The size of the car; factors to take into consideration here are the size of your garage. If you have a family then purchasing a small two seated model is probably not the right choice. The same applies if you have limited space as then you aren’t going to be able to fit a big car into it. The size is also determined by the build you are, for example if you are a tall person then you will have to ensure that you have adequate room.
2. The car purposes. Are you going to be towing a caravan or attaching a trailer to it on a regular basis? If you are then you should consider a car with a bigger engine such as a four wheel drive. If you only want something to run about in the city then your choice might be better suited to a smaller hatchback model. The car you choose should fit in with your lifestyle.
3. Insurance cost. The size, make and model of the vehicles are all factors that are taken into consideration when it comes to determining the quote for your premium for the car insurance.
4. Type of fuel, you have the choice of going for a petrol or diesel model; there are many advantages to choosing a diesel model rather than petrol. The diesel engine is considered to be more reliable and the fuel is more economical. However there are bad points too and these include the engine of the car being worked harder which means a major overhaul.
5. The last important one, consider the budget and the car prices range.

Mitsubishi Pajero

I post this article originally for my other blog the 4WD-fourbyfour.blogspot.com , however I think this article also relevant for this blog.

The Mitsubishi Pajero is a sport utility vehicle manufactured by Mitsubishi Motors. It is known as the Mitsubishi Montero in the Americas and Spain, and as Mitsubishi Shogun in the United Kingdom. In this post I would like to discuss the third generation Shogun/Pajero (1999 - 2006) with 3.2 liters diesel engine.

Mitsubishi Pajero is one of few real off-road workhorses, in the market it has competitors like Toyota Land Cruiser, Nissan Patrol and Jeep Grand Cherokee. Although the has superb exterior and interior design, Pajero can’t compared to the premium brand likes Range Rover or BMW X5, Pajero is thougher, real workhorse with bullet proof engine.

Pajero brief fact:
- Engine: 3200 cc four-cylinder diesel
- Output: 158 hp at 3800 rpm
- Torque: 275lb ft at 2000 rpm
- Transmission: 5 speed auto
- Fuel consumption: 26 MPG
- Weight: 2155 kg
- Top speed: 106 mph

Engines and Performance
The Pajero 3.2-litre direct injection diesel produce 158 bhp and 275lb ft torque. Although the power is slightly less than its competitor, however the high torque made Pajero is more flexible. The engine bit noisy, especially from the outside. While power is on the low side, the engine delivers tons of torque at under 4000 rpm, good for off-road driving and climbing steep grades. Fitted with Mitshubishi’s new INVECS-II five speed auto transmission, the Pajero has optional fully automatic mode or sequential manual shift. The quality of the automatic change reduces the temptation to use the manual option, although it can come in handy for accelerating hard out of junctions. The manual changes would benefit from being less hesitant.

Ride and Handling
In the asphalt road Pajero is quick and comfortable, body roll appears during cornering. The steering is good, its accuracy and a relative quick rack helping you make correction off road. As the result of fitting a multi link rear axle, Pajero lack of ground clearance. The traction system was rarely problem. The four-wheel drive system is switchable, operating as rear-wheel drive under normal conditions. The Pajero off road capability slightly less than its competitor Toyota Land Cruiser. The Pajero's soft suspension is generally forgiving and smooth on the highway. Road feel is never very lively in 4x4s, but the Pajero's rack-and-pinion steering is a big improvement over the previous model's setup. Road and wind noise make an appearance at moderate highway speeds. Cornering response is predictably ponderous, with pronounced side-to-side roll. Let's just say cornering quickly with the Pajero is not a very good idea. The Pajero features big ventilated disc brakes front and rear, necessary to haul this truck down from highway speeds, and they work adequately well in conjunction with ABS.

On rippled gravel surfaces, the Pajero exhibited little bounce thanks to the Pajero's fully independent suspension. Mitsubishi's compliant springs and shocks soak up most of this motion, producing a very smooth ride during mild offroading. Mitsubishi also does away with the classic body-on-frame construction of most 4WDs and opts for a unit body construction. This generation of the Pajero is the first to be built on a unit body, ditching the older body-on-frame design while also leading to a stronger structure that does not rattle over bumps. On really steep descents and climbs, the Pajero's torquey V6, low-range transfer case and brakes work together superbly, allowing good control when going downhill and providing plenty of torque for climbing back up.

Interior and Driving environment
The cabin is not complicated, is comfortable, robust and roomy. The quality is moderate. Pajero has seven seats. The third row of seats fold out of the floor, a neat system that creates valuable spaces when the seats are not in use. The shogun’s boot is narrow and tall, although with the rear seat folded it’s more usable. Driving position is good, visibility is excellent. The design of centre console is modern, however the fake wood in the dash look ugly. The Pajero dials composition and design is out of date.

LWB or SWB 4WD?

After 20 years using various 4WD vehicles in various terrain, a basic question arise; which one better, short wheel base (SWB) or long wheel base (LWB) 4WD?

1. In muddy road:
A light weight short wheel base vehicle like Suzuki SJ410 is the best for this kind of terrain. The Suzuki will “float” above the mud. Some times a medium weight long wheel base vehicles like Defender 110 or Daihatsu Taft Hiline LWB are also good for this road. The muddy road condition is always not homogen, the opportunity to get hard ground is better with a long wheel base 4x4. The full size 4x4 likes Toyota Land Cruiser and Nissan Patrol will become the first vehicle stuck in the mud.

2. Gravel road.
LWB vehicles will give a better ride in this condition as long as the rocky road is not to rough. Riding a SWB 4x4 in this terrain will make your back pain getting worst.

3. Sandy dessert.
Both LWB and SWB are ok for this terrain. If you driving fast, LWB is better, more stable compare to the SWB vehicles

4. Rocky road
In this condition, a SWB vehicles with high departure and overhang angle will give an advantage to pass a rough rocky road. Suzuki SJ410, Wrangler Jeep and Toyota FJ40 will meet this qualification.

5. Steep hilly road.
The stability of LWB vehicles will take an advantage in this condition, especially when downhill.

For myself currently I choose a 4x4 to compromised all terrain above, Jeep Cherokee XJ. The wheel base is not short like Wrangler or SJ410, but still shorter than Land Cruiser or Nissan Patrol. With 32” tire, I can manage almost all obstacles and still feel comfortable while driving.
So, what 4wd vehicles wheel base is good for you?

More articles in 4wd tips are available in my other blog: 4WD-fourbyfour

Honda CX500 CDI Schematic (2)

Ok, lets continue my previous post about the Honda CX500 schematic.

As before, this post refer to old posting by George in NC. He made two CX500 CDI prototypes and I've tried to made the second prototypes and its works!!. I made it twice, the first one was works for more than 3 years and the second one works for one years, its failed at the same time with stator/rotor problem (see my first posting about Honda CX500 by clicking here).

And here what George in NC wrote:

Section II: The Prototypes

Prototype 1:

Properties:
• it works
• it's the simpler of the two
• no timing advance
• max revs are roughly 6500-7000rpms
• bike runs rich when this iginition is used

This one will get you home or make a good test unit, but I wouldn't want to use it as a permanent solution...



This is a good example of Prototype 1. The input leads (LtBlue/Orange) are coming in from the left and the Blue and White leads are coming in from the right. You can see that there are two SCR's (one for each side). You can also see that the two capacitors/sides have thier own power input from the Blue wire lead. There is a diode that you cannot see located under the top brown capacitor. The two electrolytic capacitors are the 2.2mFD 450V capacitors. To the right are the 'C' diodes....



Prototype 2:

Properties:
• it works
• it's the better of the two
• timing advance
• max revs are same as original
• bike runs well when this iginition is used
• this ignition requires tunning of varistor 'G' to work correctly

This iginition is alittle tricky because of the tuning required for it to work correctly. My best suggestion is to use a varistor that is about 2000 ohms and start the bike with it set to 2000 ohms. Once the bike is started, slowly reduce the ohms until the bike starts to falter...then turn the varistor back half the distance. This needs to be done for each side. I have had the varistor at both 0 ohms and 2000 ohms and have had no ill effects to the engine so don't be afraid to play around.

There is one thing I would like to change on this schematic when possible. The 'Positive Supply/Blue' should be the same as in Prototype 1. Each capacitor should have it's own diode resistor set without the connection between the two 'L' connectors.


Here is a pcb board for the whole layout...the one on the left is the whole pcb, the one on the right is just the silkscreen for the actual copper layout (so you can print it off and use it as an overlay).



For those wanting to get a general idea of what to expect price wise, here is a list of components I bought to build the CDI boxes...

These prices are really old data from http://www.digikey.com/ and may have changed. You can check all of that out on their online catalog...

Part #	#	description	Price $US	Totals
P5873-ND	2	2.2microF Radial Caps	$0.87	$1.74
E4473-ND	6	.047microF Metal Poly Caps	$0.50	$3.00
E4153-ND	2	.015microF Metal Poly Caps	$0.43	$0.86
470QBK-ND	10	Resistor 470Ohm 1/4Watt Carbon Film	$0.06	$0.56
680QBK-ND	10	Resistor 680Ohm 1/4Watt Carbon Film	$0.06	$0.56
390QBK-ND	10	Resistor 390Ohm 1/4Watt Carbon Film	$0.06	$0.56
2.7MH-ND	5	Resistor 2.7MOhm 1/2Watt Carbon	$0.06	$0.27
1N4004GICT-ND	20	Rectifier 1A 400V DO-41	$0.04	$0.80
S4008V-ND	2	SCR Non-Sensitive Gate 400V 8A TO-251AA	$0.77	$1.54
3306P-103-ND	2	10kOhm 6mm RD CERM ST POT	$0.57	$1.14
			Total	$11.03
			Handling Charges	$5.00
			Shipping	$4.00
			Total Invoice	$20.03

eventually swapped the 10kOhm ceramic pot for a 2kOhm variable resistor. The 10kOhm worked fine, but I wanted to use something smaller.

The wires I used for the prototypes was either 20 or 22 gauge solid wire. In fact that is the wire I have been using through this whole process and it seems to work fine. The connectors I use are the standard automotive type and they work as well.

A PCB kit from your local Radio Shack is about 15.00$US and it has most of what you need. The only other thing you might want to get is a set of Radio Shack's stencils for making the diagram/layout on the PCB. They're realitively cheap and make a MUCH better/cleaner board.

There is also the cost of the soldering iron and solder. If you've never soldered before then you need to search on the internet for some sort of tutorial. There are some out there, that's how I learned...that and practice.

Many thanks to Goerge in NC who wrote this article long time ago. I wonder, does anyone know George current e-mail address, it will be nice if we can discuss about honda CX500 with him.

Note: my PC crash last year and I lost the original schematic files, I apoligize can't send bigger picture anymore.



update:
one of this web visitor give a link for the picture, thank you for RHCE V6.....
RHCE V6 said:
Here are the schematics.

1. this is a very basic circuit that will get you running but has no advance so RPMs are limited to ~6K-7K

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z370/rhcev6/CX500CDI/NO-Advance.jpg

2. this is the full CDI with advance cuircuit. You can set the trip pots initially at 2Kohm and then adjust as needed above 6K RPMs

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z370/rhcev6/CX500CDI/Full-CDI.jpg

Honda CX500 CDI Schematic

Somebody asked me how to make the DIY cx500 CDI.
Originally I found this CDI schematic from internet long time ago, written by George in NC, however I can't found the link to his site now.

This is the first diagram:

The Actual Honda CDI Circuit Schematic….


click for larger image (not to large aniway...)

Schematic summary: (written by George in NC)

This schematic was given to me by someone in NC who had removed the resin on a non-working CDI and diagramed it. I had also taken the resin off some boards and have found that this diagram is right on the money so it is the basis for the prototypes. There is no difference in the schematic for either the black or gold box (at least none that I’ve found). The only thing to note below is that the ORN and ORN/WHT leads are swapped. The ORN is the left TDC lead and the ORN/WHT is the ADV lead (this also holds true for the LTBLUE leads).

The 3 leads (Ex…ORN/WHT + ORN/RED + ORN or LTBLUE/WHT + LTBLUE/RED + LTBLUE…you get the idea) trigger the SCR (Ex…SCRR or SCRL), with a pulse, to discharge the capacitors (Ex…CR or CL) through the ignition coils (which are step-up transformers/increase the voltage) thus creating a spark at the spark plugs. The power used to charge the capacitors is supplied by the Blue and White wire and the ignition is turned off by the BLK/WHT wire going to ground.

Lead Descriptions: On the above schematic there is an error and the listings below are correct….

Wire	Description
LTBLUE/WHT	pulse lead for SCRR advance
LTBLUE/RED	pulse lead for SCRR gate cutoff
LTBLUE	pulse lead for SCRR TDC/idle gate trigger
ORN/WHT	pulse lead for SCRL ‘full’ advance
ORN/RED	pulse lead for SCRL gate cutoff
ORN	pulse lead for SCRL TDC/idle gate trigger
BLUE	positive pulsing power for discharge capacitor
WHITE	not totally sure, but it is used as the negative half of the alternating current flowing through the positive BLUE.
GREEN	ground to bike frame/engine.
BLK/WHT	goes to ground when kill switch is tripped or ignition is turned off
PEACH/PINK	goes to Right coil
YELLOW	goes to Left coil

Notes:
The first thing to note is the extra SCR (SCRP). I think that this SCRP uses a voltage divider to trigger the gate, so that when the pulse coming from ORN/WHT reaches a certain voltage it sends the trigger pulse to ground. This would basically make it a rev limiter…cute….On the prototypes I’ve put together, I haven’t used this part of the original module yet. Will I? Don’t know…

There is an important note I would like to add about the electrical characteristics of a SCR. An SCR is basically a diode that can be turned on/off like a light switch. The trick is that a SCR cannot be turned “off” until the voltage across it is either zero or a negative value. So how does the SCR in this ignition turn off?? I won’t know for a fact until I get a oscilliscope and do alittle testing.

Basic Component Descriptions:

Item	Description
D8-11	creates positive pulse
D12 & 13	creates negative pulse
R19, R26 & 27	voltage divider
R22, R23	voltage divider
Capacitors	in general, the capacitors (not including CL & CR) are used for filtering out unwanted ‘noise’. An exception could be C4 & C6, which may be used to smooth out the pulse triggering the SCR (SCRR & SCRL).
CL & CR	used to store the charge that is dissipated through the coils to create the spark
SCRL & SCRR	used to ground CL & CR so that charge can be dissipated through the coils
D6 & D7	used to allow negative pulses allowed by the Blue wire resistor/diode network to goto ground?
SCRP	possibly used to send the triggering pulse to ground so as to keep the rpms below a certain point (rev limiter)

Thanks to George in NC for his important information.

I'm blind about motorcycle electronic, so actually I'm not really understand with the above diagram, however I ordered somebody to make the CDI, and its work.

I'll post how to make my home made CDI (including the list of component needed) in the next few days.

Update: OK, the second post of CX500 have been publish, follow this link.

My other posting related to CX500:
1. Honda cx500 review
2. Honda cx500 wiring diagram

Toyota Avanza

Currently Toyota Avanza still hold the best selling for small-medium MPV category in Indonesia. The Toyota Avanza is an Indonesian designed mini MPV produced in Indonesia and also assembled in Malaysia, with supervision from Toyota, who also sell the car under their Daihatsu brand. The car was launched at the Gaikindo Auto Expo in 2003 and sold over 100,000 units that year. The name "Avanza" was taken from the Italian word avanzato, which means "advance".

The Avanza is a new model develop as low premier MPV to split Toyota Kijang/Toyota Unser to 2 different models, another new model is the Toyota Innova which is higher spec and aimed at a higher market.

Toyota Avanza is sold in Indonesia, Lebanon, Malaysia, Thailand, Philippines, South Africa and Mexico.

1st Generation (2003 - Present)

The model is a five-door MPV with a FR layout. It features a 1.3-litre gasoline engine with a maximum output of 67 kW (92 PS) at 6000 rpm, and a 1.5-litre gasoline engine that produces 80 kW (109 PS) at 6000 rpm.

A special version of the Avanza was launched in late 2004 using a more powerful VVT-i unit. The special edition was also equipped with an automatic transmission.

The Avanza was restyled near the end of the third quarter of 2006 with a new grille, new bumpers, a new interior, and new front and rear lamps. The 2006 model New Avanza S also has a new engine, a 1.5-litre 16-valve DOHC VVT-i gasoline engine (similar to the Toyota Rush) along with the new ABS braking system.

Daihatsu Xenia

The Avanza's twin model is the Daihatsu Xenia, the only Daihatsu to use two engines - the 1.3-litre EFI similar to the Avanza's, and a three-cylinder 1.0-litre with power and torque rating at 63 PS (62 hp/46 kW) at 5600 rpm and 92 N·m (68 ft·lbf) at 3600 rpm.

In China, Daihatsu together with First Automobile Works (FAW) launch the Xenia on 21 June 2007. Production in China will be carried out at FAW Jilin Auto.[2] The Daihatsu Xenia is using 1.3 and 1.5-litre EFI similar to the Avanza's.

Currently Daihatsu Xenia sold in Indonesia and China.

Brief Review

"My brief was to develop the Avanza for the Asean region and at this time, we are only thinking of selling it in the Asean markets. Perhaps we may also offer it in other countries outside Asean but it is not something we are looking at for now," said Kaoru Hosokawa, the Chief Engineer for the Avanza who was present at the media at the Toyota Avanza lunching.

That Toyota chose a MPV for its second low-cost effort was probably influenced by the huge success of the Kijang/Unser over the years. Although the sedan is still a popular bodystyle, people-carriers are much more popular in Indonesia and the Philippines and sell in very large volumes, In Indonesia especially, the Kijang has become something of a ‘national car’ given its sales dominance.

The Avanza has rear-wheel drive which, in the view of Chief Engineer Hosokawa, is more suitable for this type of vehicle and also better for the conditions in the Asean area. While front-wheel drive has its merits and comes in very useful when more space in the cabin is needed, the 4070 mm long Avanza already has enough body length so having RWD is not disadvantageous. It is better when a full load is carried and provides better rear-end traction as weight distribution is better,

The suspension (by the way, the bodywork is monocoque, like a passenger car’s) has a simple design too, making for low cost. Up front are independent MacPherson struts and at the rear, the live axle is located by a 4-link arrangement and rides on coil springs. It’s a proven layout and one which is also durable.

It is also evident that the designers did a lot of studies of this region and found that apart from rough road conditions, there is also flooding along roads. To make sure that Avanza owners have no problems in such conditions, the ground clearance is a generous 180 mm and like the Unser, the air intake is set high up, out of the way of even water splashes into the engine bay.

The rest of the chassis is conventional with a disc/drum brake combination and the tyres have a size of 185/70R14. On the manual version, 5J steel wheels are standard while the automatic comes with alloy wheels (the spare is steel).

Versatility is another highlight of the Avanza and in the spacious cabin, there are three rows of seats to accommodate seven adults. It’s actually very impressive packaging to get the third row into a body with this length and what’s more, the third row is actually comfortable enough for adults. It’s not like the third row seats in some vehicles which are just cushioned pads planted on the cargo area floor and people sitting on them have their knees under their chins.

The second and third row can be folded flat for more cargo space but the third row cannot be removed altogether. Folding of the seats is easy and access to the third row is done by folding the second row seat flat and then flipping it up. The only odd thing is that you can only flip up the seat on the left side as the one of the right won’t do that. So it seems like the model was conceived with righthand drive markets in mind.

The dashboard has a nice modern look with an ergonomically efficient layout of controls and switches. Recognising that the cassette format is going the way of extinction, Toyota Motor’s products planners have fitted a 1-DIN head unit with a CD-player and radio.

For the driver, there’s a very clean instrument panel layout with a touch of sportiness. A tiny differentiation between the manual and automatic version is that the odometer for the former is an analogue type whereas the automatic gets a digital LCD display. The switchgear is classic Toyota, meaning it has a solid feel while the steering wheel has a nice style. Steering column adjustment is not available so you have to live with the position chosen by Toyota.

All the conveniences we’ve come to take for granted are present including power windows (front and rear) and central locking. As a first in its class, the Avanza’s air-conditioning system is a dual blower type with a second set of vents on the ceiling to blow cool air to the rear. The fan speed for the second blower is also adjustable although it would be nice if a switch could be put on the dashboard for the driver to switch it off when not needed.

Storage space is always an important thing in a car these days and even more so in a MPV. For the Avanza, there are no less than 17 storage areas and these include cupholders and even slots for pens and handphones at the rear.

Driving Impression

From this brief drive, it was apparent that the 1.3-litre engine is a robust unit and should offer reasonable performance in normal driving conditions. In the higher rev range, the engine noise does intrude so some extra insulation may be welcome but at town speeds, it is fairly smooth and quiet.

Handling-wise, the Avanza is impressive and very stable in tight turns, It also shows the same stability in fast weaving and this quality could well be something the chief engineer, whose background is in chassis engineering, could well have given a lot of attention to. High marks also go to the ride comfort although we will have to see how the Avanza takes bumps and potholes (which were not present on the smooth test track).

The build quality of the vehicles was very good and those in the showroom can be expected to also be of the high quality typical of Toyota products. Though it’s a low-priced vehicle, Toyota has not compromised in areas that are visible to customers although for under $ 12,000, you obviously cannot expect them to provide the same standards as a Corolla.

UP DATE:Early this year (2009) I have a chance to test a brand new 1.5-litre 16-valve DOHC VVT-i gasoline engine, manual transmission Toyota Avanza for 6 days in Bali, Indonesia. I brought my family with me (wife and my daughter) plus some additional traveling bags, so almost 3/4 of its maximum payload. My first impression is a much better interior improvement compare to the one I tested in 2004. Better dashboard design and quality, plenty cup holders etc.

The engine sound is very minimal from inside, good sound proof. The clutch is light and smooth, change gear is easy. However, after ride just outside the parking lot and enter the busy city road, I feel the gear ratio were to closed one to the other, and for 80km/hrs I should 5th gear and the rpm go up to 2500-2800, the engine is fine but I can feel the sound and vibration while driving.

For extra urban drive, especially in hilly and road likes Bali, the gear ratio are perfect, less body roll (compare to the 1st generation). I never loss a power while over take or climbing hilly road. The fuel consumption is around 1 liter for 14-15 km (extra urban), 12-14km (city drive).

Potential Problem

After few years in the market, the second hand avanza/xenia have some checklist to be inspect:

- advance throttle opening, makes the engine slightly rough and not smooth while start. Go to Toyota/Daihatsu authorized workshop, and make an adjustment in the throttle valve.

- Excessive body roll when the car is not in full load condition. The rear shock absorber slightly too soft. Replace with harder rear shock absorber.

- In early production of xenia/avanza, a problem in clutch release bearing in the transmission is common. The dealer will replace the parts with a better product for free (during guarantee time).

TheCarConnection.com – One stop automotive information

From 2 door sport car to light truck, from SUV to economic green car, all covered by TheCarConnection.com. This site covered complete information of vehicles including the latest product from almost all automotive manufactures. TheCarConnection.com deep review includes vehicles specification, trims, amazing photo gallery and other expert reviews. Information about common car problem can be found in the “consumer opinions” section.

In my favorite “Tips and Advice” sections, TheCarConnection.com discuss a various subject, starting from general subject like “Better Winter Driving” to more specific subject like; discussion related to your car problem. And if you are interested in new development and product in automotive industry, TheCarConnection.Com News and Blogs can be a useful resource.

Renault’s Koleos Concept

Renault’s Koleos Concept makes its Australian debut at the 2008 Melbourne International Motorshow as a pre-cursor to the launch of the full production version in October.

No Compromise

The Koleos Concept car asserts its claim to the rugged and sporty world of 4WDs while featuring the comfort and dynamics of a premium passenger car. It boasts a wide range of practical functions for both everyday use and leisure. To ensure maximum off- and on-road comfort, Koleos Concept is built on a sophisticated allwheel drive chassis and is powered by a 2.0 dCi engine, both of which have been developed within the framework of the Renault-Nissan Alliance.

The Koleos Concept asserts itself as a seriously all-terrain vehicle with a design that blends ruggedness with sports appeal and elegance. It also boasts a wide range of practical functions both for everyday use and leisure, while its cabin offers top level comfort and space.

Penned by Renault designers working in collaboration with the Renault Samsung Motors Design Centre in Korea, its expressive, sporty lines speak of the desire to get away from it all. Its flowing lines have a sophisticated appeal, while the greyblue body colour emphasises a high-tech execution.

A 4WD With Dynamic Lines

Unveiled at the 2006 Paris Motor Show, the Koleos Concept show car foreshadows an integral part of Renault’s future in Australia. Penned by Renault designers working in collaboration with the Renault Samsung Motors Design Centre in Korea. The front end features LED headlamps, with additional lights and indicators housed in the exterior mirrors.

Koleos Concept features dynamic proportions. The strip between the body sides and the roof reinforces the stance of the car. The glazed roof panel is topped by profiled aluminium roof bars, while the chunky wheel arches house 19-inch aluminium alloy wheels fitted with unique "concept pattern" tyres. The 200mm ground clearance and front and rear aluminium protective skid-plates confirm that this is a car built for adventure. The steeply raked rear window further emphasizes Koleos Concept’s dynamic feel. Hinting at the vehicle’s dynamic powertrain, twin exhaust tailpipes are incorporated into the rear bumper.

Technology And Traveling Comfort

The aluminium door sill extensions, which deploy when the doors are open, facilitate ingress. On settling into the cabin, occupants discover a sporty interior, all in a two-tone colour scheme. The four independent seats, upholstered in beige leather, have been optimised to free up space for occupants and their luggage. On the dashboard, the speedometer features LED backlighting. The centre console is made from a transparent material and contains the individual controls for the climate control system. A long list of equipment is included to enhance traveling comfort. The central part of the dashboard is given over to the navigation system, multimedia applications and specific data useful for all-terrain motoring such as atmospheric pressure, compass bearings, altitude and gradient. All this information is displayed so that all the cabin occupants can read it easily. Controls are both intuitive and ergonomically designed – in keeping with the

Touch Design philosophy developed by Renault.

The cabin is brightly lit thanks to the panoramic glass roof panel. Koleos Concept offers all the comfort and roominess of a modern urban car. Ample headroom and shoulder room enable Koleos Concept to seat four adults. The numerous storage compartments in the cabin take their cue from the world of MPVs and extend from those in the floor, to under-seat drawers and the centre console cubby, not to mention the door bins.

A Vehicle That Is Ready For Wide-Open Spaces

Koleos Concept offers a full range of practical features for everyday and leisure use. The split-opening tailgate makes the vehicle easy to load and easy to access in cramped parking spaces.

The lower part of the hatch is designed to enable two people to sit comfortably for picnics or for open-air activities during holidays or weekend excursions. The chassis comes with all the features of an all-terrain vehicle. Developed within the framework of the Renault-Nissan Alliance, the chassis has drawn on the all-wheel drive expertise of our Japanese partner. Whether running in two-wheel or four-wheel drive mode, it guarantees flawless traction and road holding thanks to an electronically controlled active coupler which distributes torque to the wheels as a function of the level of grip available.

Koleos Concept also boasts a wide range of driver aids. Some are designed for day to day motoring, like ABS, Emergency Brake Assist and ESP, while others are valuable all-terrain functions such as Hill Down Control (HDC) and Hill Start Assist (HSA).

Koleos Concept is powered by an engine which is just at home on city streets, highways and motorways as it is over rough tracks. Its 2.0 dCi engine employs state-of-the-art diesel engine technology including piezoelectric injectors, common rail injection and a variable geometry turbocharger. It drives through a six-speed manual gearbox that gives Koleos Concept touring car level driving pleasure.

Koleos Concept – Technical Characteristics

Dimensions

Overall length - 4,520mm

Width (excluding exterior mirrors) - 1,890mm

Height - 1,700mm

Powertrain

Four-cylinder 2.0-litre 16-valve turbocharged diesel engine with particulate filter,

Euro4- compliant

Maximum power - 130kW/180hp

Six-speed manual gearbox

Transmission

Four-wheel drive, transversely-positioned front-mounted engine

Electronic traction control as a function of available grip

(front/rear split from 0 to 100 per cent)

Wheels and Tyres

Wheels – 19”

Tyres - Hankook 255/50 R19

sourtce: www.renault.com.au