Honda CX 500

Actually I can write a lot of articles for Honda CX 500 1980 , I bought it 12 years ago and for the last 5 years this bike sit in my garage with several electrical problems with it. However this is the first article, which some of it I compiled from several sources. I also post a CX500 wiring diagram in this link.

Before I bought the bike, I saw some pictures in the internet like this:



And the shiny rare shape engine and big and strong looks rear wheel like this:

Those above pictures so impressed me and decided to buy one. In my country this Honda is very rare, may be only 3 or 4 of them. Up to date the bike still have the original shape like this:

and this is the engine:

This motorcycles have electrical problem and sit silently in my garage. When it run normally, the bike is smooth, easy to handle, almost maintenance free, and quite powerful. The problems mostlikely came from my "home made CDI", which was made around 11 years ago. I found the "simplified" CDI circuit diagram from the internet, however I lost the original diagram, and I can't find it anymore from the internet. My first home made CDI works well for 3 years and I made a second one which only can works for 2 years. And the second promblem probably cause by my stator/alternator. The pictures below showing my " home made CDI" and the advance pulser. I'll post more information about DIY CDI in this link and this.

So for next few weeks I will keep my eye on ebay, looking for some selling CX500 CDI (I think around 50 to 100 US$) and also probably a "new" or re-build stator/alternator (this one is quite expensive arond 250 US$). Hopefully this bike can run again only with "new" CDI, because the stator still away to expensive for me. Oh, ya other thing is actually my cx is not real cx500, in the engine number is written CB450 ........, I have no idea about this, probably a japanese version of CX series.

Honda CX500 History:
The Honda CX series motorcycles were developed and released in the late 1970s, with production ending in most markets by the mid 1980s. The design included innovative features and technologies that were uncommon or unused at the time such as: liquid cooling, electric-only starting, low-maintenance shaft drive, Com-Star modular wheels, and dual CV-type carburators that were tuned for reduced emissions. The electronic ignition system was separated from the rest of the electrical system, enabling the motorcycle to be push-started and ridden in case of a total electrical system failure. It was Honda's plan that the CX series would compete favorably with smaller Moto Guzzi and BMW cycles. Therefore a lot of resources were invested in achieving an optimum design the first time. The CX series motorcycles are considered to be a great all-purpose medium-sized standard with city-bike reliability and heavier short to medium range sport-touring capability. The CX continues to be an increasing fan-base to the present day and are having a renaissance as people find older examples worthy of restoration. The 1978 CX500 Standard had a large fuel tank, stepped seat, a round brake fluid reservoir and a plastic mini-fairing that was thought to look unusual at the time, and gave the bike the nickname "plastic maggot".

Engine
The CX series motorcycles feature a crankshaft configuration aligned longitudinally with the axis of bike, sometimes called a "flying" V-twin, because the cylinders point up on either side of the motorcycle but are not symmetrical. The CX was the first V-twin motorcycle that Honda ever built. In this version the cylinders did not have the characteristic 22 degree twist. Initially conceived as having a full 90 degree angle between the cylinders like the similar Italian Moto Guzzi machines, early testers reported that the prototypes were too smooth. Also, the carburettors, which projected directly rearward from the cylinders, tended to interfere with the knees of riders. Subsequent engine designs had their V-angle tightened somewhat to 80 degrees, and the heads twisted inward at the rear by 22 degrees. An innovative design places the crankshaft above the transmission, with both in the same housing. This keeps the engine short but quite tall.

The engine design combines a 10.0:1 compression ratio and 9,650 rpm redline with overhead valves and a camshaft nestled at the base of the V between the cylinders. There are four overhead valves per cylinder, with unique forked rocker arms acting off each pushrod. The engine runs well on 87 octane petrol. It delivers nearly 50 hp (37 kW) at 9500 rpm with high low-speed torque characteristics. The Honda CX series machines claimed to outperform other motorcycles of comparable displacement. The motorcycle readily achieves a fuel efficiency of 45 miles per gallon, with figures of over 50 mpg not at all uncommon. The cylinder bores are cast in the crankcase which complicates the overhaul process although many examples have gone 200,000 miles or more without any major engine work.

Transmission
The transmission spins opposite the engine crank to counteract the engine torque's tendency to tip the bike slightly to one side when the throttle is opened or closed. The gear shift lever is moved with the usual up-down motion of the left foot, but instead of rocking in a forward-backward motion as on regular bikes, it moves left-right. This difference is transparent to the rider, however, and requires no change in shifting technique. It also means that it is not possible to adjust foot peg and gear lever setup when personalizing riding position.

Power is transferred via an enclosed splined driveshaft with one universal joint. The shaft drives a bevel gear to which the wheel is joined via a cush-drive, which absorbs and dampens driveline shocks and vibrations. The bevel drive spins in an oil bath, and a zerk fitting is provided for greasing the shaft bearing. This reduces the motorcycle's maintenance costs.

Wheels and Chassis
The original Com-Star wheels combine the flexibility of spoked wheels (without the maintenance burden) with the strength and tubeless characteristics of one-piece wheels. This was one of the first production motorcycles to be equipped with tubeless tires, Honda having introduced this technology a year or so earlier on the CB250T/400T Dream.

Early versions had conventional suspension, consisting of hydraulically damped telescoping front forks and dual coil-over shocks at the rear. Later versions had air-assisted forks and featured Honda's Pro-Link monoshock rear suspension. US bikes (except GL650I and Turbo) were equipped with a single front disk brake whereas all other bike posses dual front disk brakes. Models after 1980 sport dual piston callipers replacing the single piston calliper of the earlier models. For the Turbo and Eurosport models the rear drum was replaced with a dual piston calliper and disk. All models feature steel tube frames with a large backbone, with the engine used as a stressed member. The dual shock models use a single tube backbone whereas the later Pro-Link models employed a triple tube backbone. Later models are blessed with larger front forks which provides a noticeable improvement in handling.The European models have two brake disks on the frontwheel whereas the American versions only have one.

Problems
The original 1978 CX500 originally had a poorly designed cam chain guide location position and in the very early release demonstration models, weak big end bearing/oil supply design. The big end problem was only experienced on the initial press test bikes. Failure of the lower cam chain guide location bolt could also cause catastrophic cam chain failure and resulting damage to the related reciprocating parts. There were factory recalls to rectify the cam chain issue with varied success. If the repair was done at the dealership, there will be three punch marks in the shape of a triangle next to the serial number on the engine. Even into the late 90's the CX was still being used by couriers in London, England as they became almost indestructible when used in this manner and maintained accordingly.

There are only four real problems to worry about on a CX500. The stator, the CDI box, the cam chain, and the water pump seal. The CDI units can be got off Ebay 2nd hand or there are CX enthusiasts who have made their own Stators in the 1978-1981 CX500 serve two purposes; it charges the battery, and it provides high voltage (90+ volts) to the CDI box to run the ignition system. Stators are located in the rear of the engine, and they get very, very hot. This heat eventually causes the stator to fail. Usually only one of the three windings fail: Charging, low speed (no advance), or high speed (full advance) winding. When the charging winding fails, the battery does not charge. When the high speed winding fails, the bike will not accelerate well past 3500 rpm, when it switches over to the high speed winding. If the low speed winding fails, the bike will not start, and will have no spark or intermittent spark. In practice, usually the high speed or charging windings fail.

Note that the 1982 CX500, all GL500's, and the 83 CX650 and GL650 have different stators which only contain charging windings. These bikes have a transistorized ignition system that is extremely reliable. The stators run cooler without the two high voltage windings, so they are somewhat less prone to failing like the CDI stators. But they still do fail. Note also that the regulator/rectifier for these models is different from the previous years; the plugs are incompatible.

Water pump seals on these bikes deteriorate with age. The seal is a simple rubber and ceramic design, and if a bike sits for any length of time the seal can stick together, and when the bike is started it will self-destruct. Water pump seals can also fail on a bike that is ridden regularly if the wrong type of coolant is used but this has been challenged by quite a few CX/GL owners.It has been suggested that Silicates (tiny pieces of plastic) in normal coolant are used to keep radiators clean by basically sand-blasting away corrosion and calcium deposits. These silicates get between the ceramic and rubber parts of the seal, and will grind and pit the ceramic over time. This may cause the seal to leak.

Back-yard mechanics will commonly try to stop the leak by plugging the drain hole. (or mud wasps will nest in there) This causes the coolant to push past the oil seal on the end of the camshaft, and the coolant gets into the oil. This is often mis-diagnosed as a bad headgasket. Normally the changing of the Water pump seal means taking the engine out but an in situ repair can be done as per Mech Seal. If difficult to find the original seal, alternatively can use Yamaha Mechanical Seal part no 11H-12438-10 as written in Rob's site. My CX had the same problem, and I went to "seal shop", then find a same (almost) size seal for the replacement, this seal have no brand, however at least this seal works for 3 years before the electric problem arise.

Cam chains on the CX bikes stretch, and are only good for 50,000 miles at the maximum unless you believe this source. If the cam chain is not regularly tensioned at the proper intervals, it can stretch much faster. When a cam chain stretches (or more uncommonly a tensioner breaks), the chain will make a rattling sound. This sound is the chain contacting the aluminum case and wearing away material. If the bike is run too long in this condition the cam chain will wear completely through one of the tensioner mounting bosses, and the engine will be junk. (Also, aluminum particulates in your oil is not good for bearings). In the US, the 1983 CX650 and GL650 have an automatic cam chain tensioner that never needs adjustment. Unfortunately, this tensioner design is much less reliable than the manual adjuster, and can stick part-way through its adjustment range. This can happen even at a very low mileage, or it might never happen, but it is a somewhat common ailment for the 650 engine. For more detail about cam chains adjustment and changing please visit Rob's site in this link.

Finally, the CDI boxes on 1978-1981 CX500's are not ageing gracefully. These boxes are full of big capacitors, and the dielectric fluid in capacitors dries up over time, and can outright fail. Thus, operating CDI boxes are becoming a rarity these days. Usually they fail on one cylinder - intermittently to start, and then completely. CDI boxes are also very easy to kill by high resistances in 30-year-old spark plug wire resistor caps.

A slightly less catastrophic weak point was the plastic mechanical fan used on the 500 engines (but not the 650). Under normal usage they were O.K., but prolonged high speed operation could eventually make them shatter, usually destroying the radiator and spraying coolant on the rider's leg.

CX500 Turbo
In 1982, this version of the bike received a turbocharger and a very complex fuel injection system with multiple redundant fail-safe systems. The following year, all CX500s and GL500s were enlarged to 650 (actually 673 cc), and the turbo version got a much simplified fuel injection system. Factory turbos fell out of favor with the motorcycling public for various reasons, causing Honda to cease production of the CX650 Turbo after the 1983 model year.

The Z1R TC was the world's first turbo-charged production bike.The Cx500 T also featured fuel injection and a radical fairing. The CX500 Turbo (also known as the CX500TC) was only produced for the 1982 model year and was superseded for the 1983 model year by the CX650 Turbo which was itself based upon the naturally aspirated CX650. The CX500 Turbo engine deliver almost 78 hp, no other bike in this engine capacity can produce more than 55 hp at that time. The CX500 Turbo was sold only in limited numbers, with a total of around 5,400 manufactured.

The Turbo's powerplant was based on the water-cooled V-twin with four pushrod-operated overhead valves per cylinder used in the shaft-drive CX500 introduced a few years earlier—itself a groundbreaking design. In fact, the engine case was retained nearly intact from the original CX500, having been designed from the outset to accommodate turbo-charging. The turbocharger, at peak boost providing approximately 19 psi of over-pressure, nearly doubles the power output of the engine when on-boost. The engine case is one of the few items carried over from the original CX500; the suspension, brakes, frame and fairing all differ significantly from the earlier CX500. The base engine also was used in the Honda GL500 Silver Wing, a touring machine aimed at being the Gold Wing's little brother, and a Custom model with "chopper" styling.

The CX500 Turbo, although capable of superb acceleration when on-boost, suffers somewhat from an abrupt and large step in power when transitioning from off-boost to on-boost. Furthermore, being the first production Honda motorcycle with fuel-injection, the engine control system is complex and, by current standards quite bulky, requiring two separate enclosures as well as a number of pressure-carrying hoses.

Links:

1. Rob Davis site: excellent cx 500 source, Thanks for Rob dedicated for cx500, it is really useful for CX owner. You can find all history, technical tips, how to pages, and numerous links related to CX500.
2. CX Site
3. CX500 wiring diagram

Ford Everest 2.5

The Ford Everest (model code U268) is a mid / large size SUV sold mostly in Asia. The Everest is based on the local (Mazda-based) Ford Ranger pickup truck platform. The SUV is also sold as the Ford Endeavour in India.

Technical Fact:

Engine : DuraTORQ 2.5 L diesel, 4 Cyl, 16 valve, Direct Injection Commonrail Turbo

with Intercooler

Fuel Supply : Electrical Fuel Injection

Maximum Power : 143 hp/105 kW at 3500 rpm

Maximum Torque: 33.7 Kgm / 1800 rpm

Transmission : 5 MT or 5AT

Drive train : 2WD or 4WD

Overall lenght : 5,009 mm

Overall width : 1,804 mm

Clearence hight : 210 mm

GVM : 2,587 kg (MT); 2,613 kg (AT); 2,706 kg (MT 4WD)

The truck base SUV has three-rows of seating, rear or four wheel drive, and 2.5 L Diesel. It rides on a 2860 mm (112.6 in) wheelbase. The Everest was introduced in late March of 2003 and is built at the AutoAlliance Thailand plant, and as CKD kits in other countries (India, Malaysia, Vietnam and Indonesia). The overall length is 5,009 mm, exclude the spare tire which is located in the rear door.

In November 2006, Ford announced a redesigned Everest based on the new Ford Ranger (J97U), including Duratorq diesel engines and two different drivetrains: 4x2 for 2.5 litre 143 hp (107 kW) models, 4x4 for 3.0 litre 156 hp (116 kW) models. In addition, the redesign featured the new 5-speed automatic transmission with BorgWarner transfer case, and the new Active-Shift-on-the-Fly (4x4 only) for the first time. In Indonesia Ford Everest only available in 2.5 litre diesel engine. This new engine has a significant improvement than the previous one, quite powerful a the maximum torque of 33.7 Kgm can reach at 1800 rpm. The pre-2006 Everest engine was not strong enough to haul its 2.5 tons body (gross weight). The new Everest common rail diesel engine also have been adjusted for low quality diesel fuel, so do not worry to refueling in the remote area.

Styling and Equipment
In Indonesia, everest only available in 3 row seats XLT option, its above the standard trim. This XLT trim have been equipped with ABS, 7 seatbelts, 2 Airbags, remote keyless entry, reserve sensor, plenty cup holder and anything that expected if you buy a car with highest trim

Compare to the pre 2006, inside, gone are the wood veneer trim, replaced by bright metallic insert on the dashboard. Even the half-wood trim on the steering wheel is replaced by a more "normal" four-spoke steering wheel. The audio system is average, this big huge car only equipped with 2 speakers. But it is still a fine sound system to keep you entertained on those long drives. The seats cover material is a fabric, not a leather like the old Limited trim.

Ride & Handling
As a big middle class SUV we can’t expect to much for the handling precision, overall is not to bad. Body roll is occurred during hard cornering, however the rear leaf suspension is softer and smoother compare to the previous one. It is quite comfortable for long distance driving. The engine power delivery is smooth so long as you leave the big torque to do all the work and go easy on the throttle. You hardly use fourth and fifth gear, leaving it in third in city driving.

Cabin space and flexibility
Everest XLT winner for its amount of cabin space. There is a feeling of airiness here although there are some taller passengers who may find the seat mounted too low to the floor, making leg positioning a bit awkward. But as for the most of the Asian, there is ample head, elbow and legroom to spare and this makes for a very happy family traveling on long journeys. Access to the third row seat is easy, by tilting the second row seat forwards. Removing the third row completely may be a bit sticky but it does to add more luggage space. The rear door is opens to the side instead of above, but it does facilitate easy access for bulky items.

Toyota Camry 1997 - 2001

The fourth generation Camry was launched around 12 years ago, but I’m still want to discuss about this car. This is a mid-large sedan, comfortable, enough engine power (especially for the V6 3.0 liter engine), low maintenance, easy to maintain, and plenty spare parts. Toyota have a very good workshop distribution, and for this car, even a local private workshop mechanics familiar with this car. In my opinion tis 4th generation Camry is also has a better handling and less body roll than its predecessor. This type of Camry become , the best-selling car in the United States for three years.

Technical Fact:
Production 1997–2001
Layout FF layout
Engine(s) 2.2 L 5S-FE I4 133 hp
3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6 194 hp
Transmission(s) 5-speed manual
4-speed A140E automatic
4-speed A541E automatic
Wheelbase 105.2 in (2672 mm)
Length 188.5 in (4789 mm)
Width 70.1 in (1780 mm)
Height 55.4 in

Exterior
The Camry’s 105-inch wheelbase is 2 inches shorter than the rival Honda Accord’s, and the 189-inch overall length is the same as the Accord’s. But unlike the Accord, which comes in coupe and sedan styling, the Camry comes only as a sedan. The Camry Solara coupe and convertible, which wear different styling, is treated as a separate model by Toyota.

Interior
The Camry has ample space for four adults, and the driver’s seat has enough fore-aft travel to accommodate tall or short people. The dashboard layout is a typical Toyota design that is uncluttered, attractive and convenient, except for the climate controls, which are too low to operate easily while driving. Split rear seatbacks are standard on all models and supplement the 14-cubic-foot trunk.

Under the Hood and Fuel consumption
A 2.2-liter four-cylinder engine with 136 horsepower is standard on the CE and LE models. A 194-hp 3.0-liter V-6 is standard on the XLE and optional on the LE. Versions of the V-6 also are used in the Lexus ES 300 sedan and RX 300 sport utility vehicle. A five-speed manual transmission is standard on the CE and LE V-6, and a four-speed automatic is optional. All others come with the automatic. When teamed with a 5-speed manual the 2.2 liter engine achieves an impressive city/highway fuel consumption rating of 10/6.8 litres/100 km. However for the V6 3.0 liter engine, City/highway fuel consumption is 12.3/8.1 litres/100 km. Traction control was also offered as an option on the XLE V6.


Safety
Side-impact airbags for the front seats are optional on all models. Antilock brakes are standard on V-6 models and optional on those with the four-cylinder engine, and traction control is optional on V-6 models with automatic transmission.

Performance
The Camry is as close to a blue-chip investment as there is in a family car. All cars lose resale value as they age, but the Camry loses less than most, and someone else will be happy to buy yours when you’re done with it.

Watch for coolant leaks around the cylinder head gasket on the V6, especially on the '97. A groan from the steering is likely to be a worn steering rack housing bushing. Recalls on the '97 include a non-functioning park/brake interlock solenoid on the transmission and at extremely low temperatures ice may form in the brake booster vacuum hose and eliminate vacuum assist to the brakes.

The '98 Camry also had a couple of recalls. A deformed accelerator cable-housing could cause the cable to wear away and eventually break, allowing the throttle to stick or return to idle. The steering wheel set nut may also loosen, causing a steering vibration, and if not tightened it may eventually separate from the steering shaft.

Thinking of Japanese 4WD

After using 1996 YJ Wrangler and 2002 ZJ Grand Cherokee (both with the same 4.0 ltr I-6 gasoline engines) for more than 4 years in Indonesia, I’m started to think for buying a Japanese Diesel 4x4. FYI, due to government regulation for big engine and 4x4 car, Jeep price in Indonesia is almost the same as a luxurious Mercedes C or E class.

I‘m happy with the Jeep products, the exterior style are so beautiful, especially the YJ Wrangler is so sexy with its canvas top. It is easy to buy a modification parts especially for the Wrangler. Bumper, winch, additional light, roof rack etc, just name it, all available in many shop like 4wd.com, ARB or quadratec. They will send you a bundle of thick catalogues for free, and after that just watch your wallet, it will drained easily. And my wife regularly contact my mobile phone because I spent to much time in workshop for modification both jeeps.

Interior. Don’t ask, its really WW II style for the Wrangler, the steering wheel looks like a 1957 caldillac. Power window? No way, I still can’t believe that this 1996 wrangler have no power window. Sitting on rear sit? It is a nightmare, even my 7 years old daughter complaining, no head rest, bumpy, noisy and feel like trapped in a cage. Baggage capacity? Very limited, but who cares? It’s a Wrangler, you even don’t need a wearing a cloth while drive it. The ZJ Grand Caddy its much better, this is a real full size SUV, very comfortable cushion, good quality steering wheel, and of course a power window. A rear baggage is small, ¼ of capacity is used for spare tire.

Engine. The 4.0 ltr in-line 6 engine really a bullet proof, both cars using the same engine. No complain about it, its old but strong. 190 hp and around 300 nm torque its enough to haul its body. However, the electrical system is not as strong as the engine, torn wire, melted wire cover, excessive battery consumption, but its normal for 11 and 7 years old vehicles. Fuel consumption is not the part of discussion, it’s a Jeep anyway, it would not more than 20 mpg, 16-18 mpg is normal for daily use. With a good maintenance I never have an overheat experienced. The spare parts its quite expensive but tolerable.

Suspension and Driving Experience. A solid axle, strong transfer case made the Jeep suspension very reliable and strong. However its not comfortable, bumpy and lack of steering precision at Wrangler and excessive body roll at Grand Cherokee. Death wobble is a nightmare. But again, it is a Jeep anyway.

Why thinking Japanese 4WD? By time both jeeps started have a minor problem, not big but start make me worry especially for long journey. The workshop is limited in Indonesia, the fuel quality is poor. It is better to use a diesel engine than a gasoline one. And Japanese car workshop are plenty, the old diesel engine (not the high tech common rail diesel) is not too reluctance with poor fuel quality as long as we maintain the quality of fuel filter. What kind of car? Toyota 70 wagon series is the best workhorse, alternately I can choose Toyota 80 series, Mitsubishi Pajero or several Japanese double cab from Nissan, Isuzu or Mitsubishi.

Jeep would not give up. I will take my Grand ZJ for long trip next week, its almost cover 3000 km. Hopefully my grand caddy will performed normally. All of the Japanese can’t compare to this Jeep, I would not let my ZJ surrender.

UPDATE ...12 january 2008,

I completed my 2600km journey yesterday, it did within 5 days. The Grand ZJ have a problem at the biggining of the trip. Firts, it lost its power in high rpm, I suspect cause of poor fuel quality. So I refuelling the tank with higher octane gasoline (RON 92), in Indonesia this kind of fuel is 50% more expensive than the regular premium (RON 88). However the the RON 92 fuel is cleaner, lead free. The good quality RON 88 only available around Jakarta. The lost power problem never came after I changed the fuel. Second, transmission problem after 4-5 hrs driving, it happen when the transmission become very hot. So, I took a short rest after 3-4 hrs driving for cooling down the transmission oil. I have plan to change the original transmission oil cooler with a bigger one, to keep the transmission oil in normal working temprature. The rest is no problem, The Grand Cherokee ZJ still comfort and capable for long distance trip.

YJ/TJ Wrangler Jeep

The YJ Wrangler (later become TJ and JK) is an off-road vehicle produced by American automaker Chrysler under its Jeep marque. It is a successor to the famous World War II 'Jeep' vehicle by way of the Willys Universal Jeep (CJ) in the 1950s, later produced by Kaiser-Jeep and AMC. The Wrangler debuted in 1987, was updated in 1997 and again in 2007, and is still popular today.

The Wrangler, 1987 to 1995 models were sold as YJ, and 1997 to 2006 models were sold as TJ. The model designations of YJ and TJ are used throughout the world in the Jeep enthusiast community to differentiate which model is being spoken of instead of using the more ambiguous term "Wrangler".

The Jeep YJ, sold as the Wrangler, replaced Jeep CJ in 1987. It was a new design with a wider wheelbase, slightly less ground clearance, a galvanized body and more comfort. The YJ also had a leaf spring suspension similar to that of the CJ, however, the springs were wider, and the YJs sported trackbars and swaybars for added handling. YJs are easily identifiable by their rectangular headlights, which were a source of controversy when introduced. Despite the new grill, the body is very similar to the CJ's, and it is interchangeable with some minor modifications.

The YJ used a 2.5 L AMC 150 I4 or optional 4.2 L AMC 258 I6 until 1991. That year, a fuel injected 180 hp (134 kW) 4.0 L AMC 242 variant replaced the 112 hp (84 kW) 4.2 L straight-6. The NP207 transfer case was used only in 1987 and replaced by the NP231

The roll cage was extended in 1992 to allow for rear shoulder belts, and anti-lock brakes were added as an option the next year. An automatic transmission option for 4-cylinder Wranglers came in 1994 along with a center high-mounted stop light.

In 1994, the slave cylinder on manual transmissions was moved outside of the transmission's bellhousing to allow for easier replacement, and in 1995 larger U-joints were used.

The review below is written by thermocouplerelay, I’m really impressed with his review, it is exactly represent the YJ/TJ Wrangler situation.

Wrangler Jeep, whether you buy a hardtop or a ragtop, you can take the top off drive down to the beach (right up to the surf), snake through fire roads to a secluded campsite, or just look darn cool in the high school parking lot--whether you're a teenager or not!. You can take your dog down to the river for a little swim, then have him jump in and not be concerned about messing up your weather-resistant seats. With the turning radius of a bulldozer, and being short and providing good visibility of its ends, it's also a great urban vehicle; you can parallel park in spots an SUV could only dream about. And let's not forget the ability to park in spots that normal people wouldn't even notice as a spot, like a muddy grass at a festival where they have you parking in a field.. And with real 4wd, not that awd stuff where the front and rear axles are not locked together, a foot of freshly fallen snow won't keep you from getting out to shovel your parents' driveway at the crack of dawn after a blizzard. For Southerners, after a hurricane washes sand across the highway, and in some cases the blacktop has eroded away, or tree branches litter the streets after a major storm, that won't stop you either. Of course you should never drive through flood water, but just in case you had to, Jeep designed the TJ (1997-2006 Wrangler) to wade through water up to the headlights.

Unfortunately there is a price to pay for driving such an incredibly uncompromising vehicle. It's noisy, and it bounces around. In old CJs and square-headlight Wranglers, it's so noisy at highway speeds you can barely talk to the person next to you. The hard top deadens the noise a little, but with big knobby tires and wind whipping around a flat windshield, it's no library. With that classic design comes a complete lack of aerodynamics, and that means poor gas mileage. The 97 up TJ Wrangler had the windshield swept back a bit more, but gas mileage is still well below 20mpg. With a ragtop, you can't lock anything inside unless you purchase an insta-trunk from Quadratec or the Jeep dealer. This will give you a small, maybe 3-4 cu ft enclosure to lock up some tools, a purse or other small items, creating a small trunk in front of the locking tailgate. Of course now you have lost most of the space in the back for when you want to carry things like bags of mulch, groceries, patio pavers, or large boxes. With the rear seat removed, there is actually quite a bit of cargo room, which is easily accessible by the swing-out tailgate. There is a locking center console and a locking glove box, but are plastic compartments ever truly locked? Best bet: get a hardtop. If you're buying used, the increased cost will be minimal. You can take the hard top off almost as easily as the soft top (just need to find a place to store it); you can lock stuff inside; and it will last the life of the vehicle. No matter how well you take care of them, the soft tops need to be replaced every few years ($500-800). The only drawback with a hardtop is that when you take it off you still have the full frame doors which look kind of goofy. Solution: pull the doors off. They're made to come off by pulling the two hinge pins. Just make sure you buy some mirror relocator brackets from Quadratec so you can mount them via the screws on the windshield; otherwise you might get a ticket (or worse, cut somebody off). And buy a $90 bikini top (piece of canvas that only covers the front seats and ties to the rear) to protect you when you inevitably get caught in the rain.

Upgrades from the CJ-7 (made by AMC) to the square-headlight Wrangler (designed by AMC but made by Chrysler--right after they bought the Jeep nameplate): new interior, with gauges arranged in a somewhat egronomic way, rather than just where they fit in the sheetmetal; new funky square headlights (which apparently only the guy who designed them thought was a good idea); and after a year or two, the old CJ-vintage 258 cu in (4.2L) straight six with a Carter 2bbl was replaced with a "high output" throttle-body injected 4.0L straight six. The 4.0L survived with only minor changes (multi-port injection in TJs) through the 2006 model. This year it has finally been retired in favor of a 3.8L V-6. The old faithful 4.0L was the premium engine in Wranglers and Cherokees and the base engine in 1st and 2nd gen Grand Cherokees.

Some of the upgrades from the square headlight Wrangler to the newer round-headlight TJ Wrangler include: (obviously) the old-school round headlights; leaf-springs replaced by coil springs for a better ride on and off-road; nicer interior with dual airbags; optional Dana 44 3/4 ton axles for serious off-roading (not necessary for 99% of the people who buy Jeeps); an easier to use framework system for the soft-top which keeps it tighter (quieter) and makes it easier to remove; room in the wheel wells for 31x10.50R15 (equal to 255/75R15) tires with the stock 7" wide rims (old Wrangler could only accept 235/75R15--two sizes smaller).

I highly discourage buying a 4 cyl. They are ridiculously underpowered, and get about the same mileage as the 6cyl. If you're that concerned about mileage, maybe Jeeps aren't for you. The combination of weight and drag from the four-wheel-drive system and aerodynamics of a brick make for very poor gas mileage. Great second or third vehicle; not so great primary commuter.

Though the Jeep 4.0L straight-six is among the most reliable engines ever to come out of Detroit, chances are, the exhaust manifold has or will go bad. You can tell this by a slight hissing sound when the engine is running, or when you accelerate while driving. Banks and Borla both make great stainless steel headers (a header is a tubular pipe that is the first part of the exhaust system leaving the engine head--when a cast iron grouping of pipes is used, it's called a manifold). It's not the kind of thing that will leave you stranded, and you generally notice it getting worse over a period of a few months--plenty of time to catch it.

What kind of tires do you want to put on your Jeep? If you buy a Jeep that originally had little little tires (225/75R15 or smaller), and you go out and buy wide aftermarket rims and 31" tires (Rubicon size), you'll probably find that it now accelerates like a dog and you can't use 5th gear or the engine will bog down. This is because your axles are geared at 3.07:1, which is not appropriate for larger (cool-looking) tires. You can tell what ratio it has by crawling on your belly and looking at a small steel tag on the back of the differential housing (that pumpkin-looking thing in the middle of the axle). Look for a 3.73 or higher if you want to put bigger tires on. Your best option is to get a TJ which came with the 30" tire option. A factory tow package should ensure you have an adequate gear ratio for up to 31" tires. Also, for some reason they usually gave Jeeps with automatic transmissions higher ratios, more appropriate for larger tires. Remember the final drive ratio has nothing to do with the transmission, it's the relationship of the number of teeth on the ring gear vs the pinion in the axle housings. The higher the final drive ratio the "lower" the gearing.

Now that you've bought your Jeep, go out and have some fun. You can contact your local forrestery dept to find out where you're allowed to drive off-road. There are actually open trails all over the place. If you drive on private land without permission you can be arrested for trespassing. And making a mess on trails you're permitted on will only ruin it for future wheelers. Off roading is about creeping through difficult terrain and driving up near-vertical cliffs (and hitting the occasional mud pit if it's designated for that purpose by its owner), not doing donuts in a cornfield. Keep it in 4 Lo when crawling over rocks or up super steep grades to avoid overloading the auto trans or manual clutch. It sounds cliche, but you really need to get out there and see what your Jeep can do--just once--to appreciate it. So many people buy Jeeps solely for the look and never venture off-road. That's like buying a plane and just taxiiing around the airport! That short-wheelbase, high-clearance design is not just for looks. You'll be grinning from ear to ear once you leave the pavement.

Final notes:
Good for kids, grown-ups with no kids, grown-ups with kids out of the house. Not good for grown-ups with multiple little kids. Our Yukon holds just a bit more than the little TJ it replaced. Beleve me, it was tough to sell a vehicle which had given me five good years and had absolutely no problems, just because we'd outgrown it. And it's even worse when that vehicle is an American icon that never gets old. I sure do miss her. A nine-year-old. It still looked and ran like brand new. I always wanted to buy some aluminum rims but never got around to it. I did get the ARB air locker installed after having it for two years. Looking back and comparing how many times I had to use it (5) vs the cost (about $2,000.00 when all was said and done), it was a colossal waste of money--$400 per use! But it sure was comforting to know it was back there when the going got tough. From now on, I'm buying trucks with the differential lock already installed!